donnieu

A couple of years late, but I am using the NGS Seve SR flex in my Onoff driver. When untipped, the tip had way too much flex for me. A 1/2 inch tip trim made a big difference. Medium launch for me, good distance. I have the NGS Rey coming soon in a used driver I just bought. They are both great looking shafts also. I am just switching from S to SR flex this year, a little longer shaft, and lighter weight.

Lighter shafts supposedly give better feel for the clubhead. But need to add more weight to the head to get same swingweight. I built a set of irons with the old silver/black Rifle 80 gram graphite shafts using some heads with an undercut cavity in back. I put a 12 gram strip of lead in the undercut cavity using 1/8 inch plyable lead. Produced a very high MOI. Great feel for the clubhead also. D5 swingweight. Will use those when I break 65 (age).

First, if you put a different head on it, the new head could weigh different from the Gran Prix, which could cause a slight flex difference. Otherwise I would butt trim to 45.5 and try again. if still too soft, tip trim 0.5 after that. If you want to do it all it one step, I would tip trim 0.5 and butt trim 0.5 if heads weigh the same. 20-25 grams of head weight is equal to about one full flex difference, so head weight difference would be very slim effect on flex.

My main concern is not damaging the shaft (Speeder Onyx). Some of these have a seem and come off easy. Others not so easy.

That is about what I tried. Took about an hour. I tried another option. Heat gun it on the shaft to break the epoxy. Then epoxy it back in a spare .350 head. Next day pull the shaft again and the shim stayed epoxied to the inside hosel of the head. Easier to scrape it off there.

I played a 44" with heavier shaft for many years. Switched this year to 45 inch (age 61), S to SR flex, lighter shaft. S to SX in irons. My misses with irons are usually draw/hook, with woods fade/slice. Swing easy, hit it hard. Try swinging at 85% for better balance and better contact. One of the guys who taught the short game to Stan Utley gave me a tip about 40 years ago - stay balanced and keep the head still. I hit a high control fade with Yonex Ezone 450. Most consistent driver I've tried, but high fade is not good in the Texas wind.

Is there any significance to a gold vs red emblem? See attached pic.

2012 Red 460cc, 811 body, 6-4 face, 59 lie, 1.0 closed (10 degree) 0.5 closed (9 degree). A fine club. One of the better D series. I have a 9 degree, my backup driver.

The 2014 head with the red square is a Type D. Have you played it yet? How do you like it? I did not like it, it felt a bit hollow, and launched high. For the D series I like the 2013 better, a more solid feel. 2010 D is also good, but also high launching.

>anyone play with these putter? hows the putter feel using aluminum insert on the face.. 2 years late with reply, but I have one. Basically just a normal anser style, but a slight bit bulkier than most, which helps on the long uphill putts here in Texas hill country. Insert feels fairly normal. I tend to do well with it on the longer putts, but have been missing a lot of 3 to 6 footers. problem could be the Indian though.

SMT, a US component company, made a few driver heads with no grooves about 5 to 10 years ago. SMT O2, SMT 455, SMT Encore...

Any hints for best way to remove the Japanese shim from a shaft after a pull? They tend to stay on the shaft. (The one inch metal ones that go totally around the tip of the shaft) They are too thin for my shaft puller to push them off.

I have a dark brown PGA Senior Tour Kinko Classic pro-am bag. Barely used. Will include the real bib used by Tom Kite's caddy.

PRGR Forged iD Type C 52/8 $50 shipped. Condition 9+/10

That looks like a 2011 XI-S, 2010 was XP+. Excellent driver. I'm using one now with a Roddio S5. Going to try the '13 and '14 soon, but not sure how it can get much better...

I made my own for an older PRGR driver I had. I had a small ferrule that fit snugly in the hosel top with the ferrule turned upside down. Then cut the top of it off with wire cutters level with top of the hosel. Then added a 2nd large ferrule in normal position on top of that one. Worked fine.

Suggest you google and see what other used clubs of same model and same condition are selling for. Resale value varies greatly. I just bought some 2007 Yamaha irons. They looked like they had about 2 rounds on them.

As of 2015, what are some of the best Onoff drivers to date? >cmon stick the 46d red in play i wanna hear ur view on it. Not sure he can hit it better than this guy. Every one at the center pole.

>>thoughts?? Its not the loft, but the distance that matters. I bought a couple of used sets, PRGR with 26 degree 5I, and Yamaha with 25 degree 5I. I do hit the PRGR 501 farther than my standard loft US set. But the Yamaha about my usual distances (175 5I, 150 7I, 125 9I). I haven't measured the lofts on either set. The Yamaha is a 2007 425V set (like new condition) with Tour AD-75S shafts. I will pull the shafts tomorrow. Hooked almost every iron shot over 150 yards way left. Except the 5I on the 175 yard #17 (six feet right of hole). Still managed to shoot +5 with 3 3-putts.

He said "shallow insert", not shallow face height. A shallow insert does the opposite of tip trimming. Shaft will play less stiff. That can be easily negated with more tip trimming. Sometimes lead tip weights will be used and the bottom piece of the tip weight gets left epoxied to the bottom of the hosel after the shaft pull if the lead tip weight breaks when trying to remove it.

Stock R flex shaft is 52 grams. Swingweight D1. Must be about 46 to 47 inches long...

The irons are 4 to 5 degrees strong. So the PW would really be a 9I, etc. Maraging steel face might have a little hard feel. I haven't played them. But I have the Zeta 3W/5W/Hybrid and they are all top notch clubs. Although a little oversize, no issue on the fairways. Maruman has great fairway woods, some with a titianium face. I also have the Maruman LX 5W, another excellent series of fairways. Strange that there are almost zero reviews of the Zeta line on internet now.

I have a Tourstage ViQ 2010 17 degree 4W head. $55 shipped with ViQ headcover. Great condition. Sweden shipping would be $50+actual shipping cost.

If a shim is too large for the gap, you can cut 3 or 4 of the shim legs off.

Do the ONOFF 2011 and 2012 drivers have a normal hosel? Or are there reshafting issues with the ferrule and hosel like some previous year models. Looking at the pictures, it appears to be a normal metal hosel. How would you rate the 2011 vs 2012 Type-S ?