ajaykkr

my reference for blades is the mp 33 which generally has weaker lofts... you are right about the mr 23s and so am I..... compare the lofts of the mr 23 with the 6-9 iron.. strong lofts is not bad... in fact the shorter irons give you longer distances... that usually is good as one needs to rely less on the longer irons... but i like the 4* degree seperation between the 4- PW... gives me better distance seperation

I just put a 2 iron in the bag.. have been using off the tee for long par 3s (high cut shot so it lands soft) and off the tee for short narrow par 4s (less than 380-390 yards) where it rolls and rolls.... middle of summer length... and I find it to be more accurate than my gfield hybrid. which was less accurate. i will get the distance, but could not ensure that it landed where i wanted it to....more variation its been working for the last few rounds.... enough digressing, wouldn't a 5 wood be easier to hit than a 17* hybrid (even if you steeper angle of attack)... so when you have hit this hybrid, would be interested in knowing how it compares to the 5 wood you had,

The x blade 2 are very good irons.. played with them all last season.. still have them... also now that I have the Mr 23 blades.... i noticed that the topline of the xblade 2 appears thinner than the mr 23's topline... that said, i am a blade ho''' so, i keep on trying new blades (and keeping the old ones)

Actually its 1 degree for the 3-5 and the PW. Its 2* stronger than most blades for the 6-9 irons. also, blades tend to be weaker than cavities...

S400 if looking for lighter....1150 tour...

Wow! the lofts are strong!

i just picked up a set too.... mine go on trial tomorrow AM..

i have not played the yururis or the gold till now, so cant help you there... i have been eyeing the yururis to add to my stable of mr 23, mp 33, x blade 2, miuras and fourteen... maybe a couple of weeks later, i could tell you more about the yururis.... chris can tell you about the yururis....

the yururis do have a great shape and I did notice the flatness on the sole...i am a steep swinger like you...particularly with my irons as i like to let the ball fly high and land soft..so it will be interesting to see how the sole works when i get them.....waiting for the specs... BTW, how is the finish holding up on those irons....

Along with forgiveness you should add one more category..... which irons win on the good shots? i have a feeling it will be the yururi....

why is picking up too much divot a problem? also why is the leading edge/sole grind important (unless of course you are looking for forgiveness for tendency to hit fat shots).... i could never understand that and am seeking your opinion so that I can learn...but my theory is this.... if the iron hits the ball first and then the ground slightly ahead of where the ball is, the ball is already gone... so it should not matter whether it digs through and takes a big divot...... only reason one would care is that when one is not accurate and tends to hit slightly behind the ball, possibly hitting the earth and in that case, digging in will result in loss of greater distance..... if my assumption is accurate, then I rather have a thin sole./leading edge grind that cuts through the turf as i will know excatly how badly i have hit the shot.... if my thinking is wrong, let me know....

thanks.. i have been leaning towards the yururi since it was mentioned in one of the posts that they remind of MP 33s (may fav. blade iron till date).... will wait on the specs.....

yururi flat black vs golds factory vs fourteen (i) which would be your pick? and why? (ii) re: the fourteen, i never liked the loft separation between the mid irons...3 degree vs 4 degrees standard, too close i think... any idea of the loft progression of the yururi irons

price drop to $250

i am a blade player.... but i am so tempted to buy those yururis..... its a clear winner in my mind.

$2K.... its the price of a Brand new set of handmades...... you can get mb2 cheaper from chris, i think

i just discovered a set of handmade MB3s, but its so expensive that I haven't pulled the trigger yet. toying with it....

its 20* for the #3, 22* is #4

among those irons, the yuri looks like by far the best by a wide margin..... even I, a blade guy, had a momentary urge to get them... gocchin what do you think given that you actually have all in your living room

welcome to the club... downside is you will use your driver less and less.... I use it only on three holes. its 3 wood on all others now.... the certainity of a 240-260 yards in the fairway versus 270-290 yard shot that may not be in the short stuff, this one rolls... also, get the 5 wood...its as good.

i think you need a bit more analysis before deciding what set of irons you should use 1) Break your game into three parts - (i) off the tee, (ii) the irons shots and then (iii) chipping and putting Figure out which is costing you strokes and how much. Be careful on the iron shots... you need to take into account whether poor tee shots leave you in positions that you need to make up with iron shots.. so if you are not successful with irons because of that...you need to play some rounds, playing iron shots from not so bad lies 2) think what led you to go down from 28-15.... which part of the game,.... if you iron handicap is low.. i would say 10-14 greens out of 18 with 3-4 near misses, you can consider a players cavity or forgiving blades....assuming you are willing to put in the effort to keep or improve from that level... if not, go for more forgiving cavities.... The type Js are reportedly great (i have never played them) somwhere between cavity and blades.....The good blades are mp 33, x blade 2, Miura Blades, fourteen (limited to those I have played) Mr-23s are good.. but i have to wait to play my first round with them.. The players cavity.... numerous options to list here.. mizuno, epons, yururi.. Miura CB 1006, Tourstage CBs... I have not played the epons or yururi..but they are reportedly nice.... Tourspecgolfer has listed some real good options if you looking for the more forgiving cavities.

Rediscovering the MP 33s.... Recently saw a few MP 33s Brand New going for nothing on ebay, so I grabbed a couple of sets...I put them in the bag on Friday and have played 2 rounds with them since.... They have a nice high flight (as everyone knows) even with the S300..... But i love that flight... the ball gets thrown up in the air and lands softly.....(the lofts are slighly weaker,, but thats not the driver of the high flight).... Now i have read and heard that if anyone had any compliant with the MP 33s was heir higher flight which led MIzuno to bring out the 67... It raises a question for me.... have those amateurs who complained about the MP 33's flight ever seen Vijay or Tiger's flight with irons... Those guys flight is towering....its high and it allows them to land softly.... so why the gripe by amateurs... The MP 33 is in the bag for now displacing the xblade 2s and the mIura blades ... I tend to rotate my irons every other month or so....so not sure how long they will stay there... but am i gald that i grabbed those sets... and that too for a song... Anyone else have any thoughts on the MP 33's flights and why it works or does not work..?

looks like a lot of guys have the mr-23 blades lying around... if you have a set in mint or better condition, pm me. heads only or shafted (ok with S-300, 1150 stiff)

I will second the Epon 13.5* - great for a long fairway finder. off the tee.. and I find it easy to hit off the turf too (haven't hit a bad shot from the turf yet)...maybe its the low KP in the GD Quattro 75s the 5 wood I have is to fill the distance between 3 wood and the hybrid, but its an optional club that I remove if I want to play a 52/56/60 combo instead of the 52/58 or 52/60 combo.

it did turn into a blade vs cavity debate..... Comparisons: 1) when lower GIRs with blades, assuming off the tee performance was the same 2) were the comparisons based on straight shots or shots that were faded or drawn, bend around trees to land on the green etc.... I have compared (i) miura CB 1006 with miura blades both with 1150 stiff (ii) Xblade CB2 with X blade 2 both with 1150 stiff (iii) MP-30 vs MP-33 (same shaft) both with S-300, Clubs from the same brand were used in the same rounds, by dropping a ball next to my where my tee shots landed on the same course. each time I hit two shots....straight, fade or draw depending on what could be done on the hole... the straight shots were not much different...but on the shots that were either faded or drawn, the blades were substanitially better..... Now there were ocassions when the straight shot was not a good option or was not an option at all (meaning i needed to lay up or needed to be less agressive in terms of how much closer to the flag i attempted) So when I add up strokes gained or lost.... i do count the odd iron shot i may hit badly (but if the bad shot from a blade or cavity both end up requiring another shot...it should be no different)...but I also count the shots that I did not have to hit... For me the blades were better.... But I dont mind the blade vs cavity trend as it helps me buy the blades that I like cheaply.... (BUT AS LONG AS THEY ARE PRODUCED) Also, I am a new golfer.... less than 2 years old in terms of golfing years....and i dont want lower scores in the round I will play today or tomorrow, I want much much lower scores in the round I will play 2 or 6 mths from now. I have noticed that blades give me more feedback, forcing me but more importantly allowing me to improve my swing dynamics... If i was not as good an iron player, maybe a different conclusion would have reached