ajaykkr

definately need some eye for color schemes

I got the 380 cc head with the roddio shaft today. putting it in play tomorrow with the gamer - 460 with the Roddio. Five variables - one head (380 vs 460); length (44 vs 45"); shaft (roddio W-6BA SR flex vs W-6WA stiff); loft (10* vs 10.5) and face angle (0.5* closed, square) will report after the weekend my preliminary impressions

cool. ....

Question? Where's the retail TB 1000 forged blade forged? are they forged at endo similar to the pro's clubs or somewhere else.

Not taking a view on forged vs cast... but responding to the original poster's quotes were on softness, not overall quality... (the quote specifically I was responding to was " Our irons are made with 4 different metals that meld into each club head....which in turns gives a MUCH softer feel to the clubs and better feedback") I am not an expert on quality of golf clubs, but i have to say i was surprised that the fourteen cast was softer than the forged.....goes contrary to the established wisdom........ makes one wonder .....are there other aspects of modern casts that go against the established wisdom as it relates to forged clubs... and BTW, i evaluate a club is whether it results in what my swing should result in? thats the main criteria. looks, feel, etc. are secondary, but important factors..

Answer to your question is YES. and if you have not hit fourteen, give it a try. I dont like their loft separation, but they are a first class product

Not to disagree... but can somebody explain why the Fourteen TB 1000 prototype (cast) feels softer than the fourteen TB 1000 forged. it should be the other way around, but is not.... BTW, the fourteen forged feel is one of the softest ever.... my xblade 2 come close, but the fourteens beat it, but the cast versions beat the forged versions and they are supposedly the same club (design etc.)

most of the grind on the higher lofted wedges has the purpose of getting the ball under the club very quickly for better shots such as lob shots or high chip shots from the fairway or tight lies..... the idea is to grind the trailing edge so that it does not stick into the ground first when a shot with an open face is played. the chikara grind helps in that.... I am not an expert in scratch wedges...never really appealed to me.

All other things being equal, a more compact head should hit the ball farther. but the chances of off-centre hits increase as the sweet spot is smaller.

i am sure you did your research, but you may want to consider a heavier shaft for the 3 wood. better control.

Nice.......very nice...

no epon hybrid, for me the g-field hybrid with the UT-85 works best. epon woods are traditional to me...but the gfield hybrid is more forgiving than the epon 5 wood in deep rough. In light rough, the 5 wood is same or better. But from the fairway, the 5 wood gives me the distance to go after the par 5 green (second shot). So i have the Epon driver, 13.5, 18 and a 3 iron for courses with short rough. For courses such as Bethpage black, deep gnarly rough, or deep fescue, i pull the 3 iron for the gfield 20* hybrid. still keep the 5 wood in. driver length should be 45" (never measured it, but assumed to be 45")

glad you tried the drev tour shaft.... thought you might be pleasantly surprised.

The EPOn fairway woods work very well with the GD quattro tech shafts. you may want to consider using them. Also, if you go with the 15* consider whether you are better off having a 20* or 19* hybrid, that bridges the gap between the 3 wood and the 3 iron (if you carry one or a #4 hybrid).

added a Like Brand New tourstage x-ut 21* Nippon 950 Stiff with headcover... see first post.

ok. paypal loaded....

if spoon will take the shaft, then i will take the head (assuming the price is right for the head). let me know.

Thanks. BTW, I just paid for the shaft (from somebody else), so the one from lpgaprospect is yours to take....

let me know if its still available after bogeydog's PM

thanks. i got the h2.....

PRICE DROP TO $235.... if you want to try a golds factory putter...this is an inexpensive way of doing this.. It hasn't touched a ball since I purchased it for a lot more than asking

Please PM me with what you have... paypal loaded. need it for an experiment..

ok. the xdrive generally hits lower than, say, the epon. so the shaft may work out for you. give it a shot..

The quattro tech is a low kick point shaft, it tends to kick the ball on the higher side, not balloon, but on the higher side.. i love the quattro tech shaft - the 75s is in my epon 3 wood 13.5* and 18* if you do decide to pull the quattro tech 65s shaft, let me know, I could possibly buy it from you.

its a pity that because of the clubmaker's preference to show that their clubs hit longer... the lofts of the 6-PW get only stronger....consequently, there is bunching between the 3 and 6 iron to make sure the 3 iron loft is 20+ not sure what benefit there is of a 3 degree increment between the longer irons... (and sometimes that separation may be even less as there is usually a 1* tolerance in manufacturing.....so the actual difference could be just 2*)....clubhead speed of most golfers is not high enough to have a difference between a 3 iron at 21* and 4 iron at 24*...... i yearn for the old 4* degree seperation between 3-PW with the PW at 47* or 48 or 49*