Richmond Golfer

Anyone know where this shaft falls on the Rifle scale. I have read the 950S is about a 5.3 Rifle flex. Is the 1050 stiffer or about the same softness to flex.

Coming off lightweight steel, Nippon 950 or Rifle at 115 grams, the S20s are alot of stick. I will probably reshaft at some point. Too bad they don't offer more shaft options.

Does Miura even make parallel (.370) heads. I guess maybe special order.

Blades hit the ball the furthest due to the mass being directly behind the ball at the pinhead size sweet spot resulting in maximum energy transfer. As you move from the sweet spot the energy transfer falls off. Its like hammering a nail with a solid small head hammer (traditional hammer) versus hammering with a larger hollow head hammer. The bigger hammer will be more forgiving for mis**ts due to the larger sweet spot but the small solid hammer will work better if hit perfectly. Cavities get better results for many because the mass is weighted at the bottom, keeping the head of the club down through impact and the sweet spot is a little larger allowing for slight mis**ts. In fact, baby blades, like Miura recently released, perform even better than regular blades when perfectly hit as even more mass is behind the ball with the total head weight still the same as the bigger blade type head.

The iron looks identical to the Epon type X iron which they discontinued. Does Endo make this club?

I just got the Fourteens and they are the best looking and feeling clubs I have ever owned. Workmanship and finish is unbelievable. Almost makes me want to get iron covers to minimize the chatter, but, you know, they say that looks bad. Have not hit them yet, so the best is yet to be learned. The S200 shafts seem to flex and feel great. The blade is fairly hefty and this might explain its forgiveness. I suspect the TB 1000s closely resemble the grind of the 5003s to provide the added forgiveness.

What is the difference in these shafts. I see there is a small (almost insignificant) weight difference, but other than that its hard to tell anything from the true temper web site.

What are the differences between these in terms of feel, softness and forgiveness?

These are definitely my next set. Just cannot decide on the shaft, just yet.

I played better with the MB's than I had the day before with the supposedly easier to use CB's - in short the best clubs I have ever owned! As said, I find the same thing. Plus, I just do not like the large head and metal hanging off the back (shovel look) of game improvement irons. When I make a bad swing, no amount of game improvement will save me, anyway. Seems to me muscle backs are the way to go.

The best way to buy a driver is to forget the launch monitor and lofts/flexes of the clubs and simply hit various clubs at a range until you find the feel and ball flight you like. Titleist does this with their fitting van everything is just numbered to their code, so you do not know what you are hitting. You may find, that you need softer, firmer, longer, shorter, higher loft, lower loft, stiff tip, soft tip, etc. ,etc. than you think you should have based upon the swingspeeds, launch monitor readings and ego you relied upon in the past. Once you know the spec of a club that really works for your swing, than you can buy,(If they wouldn't sell you the demo, that is).

I am not great either at golf but play blade irons and love them. I think they make me a better ball stricker. If I make a bad swing no amount of game improvement will help me, anyway. I see no reason groove an off center hit swing with clubs that allow one to constantly play off the heel or the toe when its really not that difficult to play nearer the sweet spot. All I hear is blades are hard to hit but if they are fitted properly they really are not.

The cv stands for cavity back. They look more like cavites than true muscle backs but appear to be the best of both worlds. Good solid looks with forgiveness.

I had asked this question somewhere, elsewhere here. One thing I see with component club makers is they tend to make the short irons too long and almost the same length from the 8i up. It seems with parallel shafts they are all the same weight, uncut, but as you cut down for a short iron they start to get very light and swingweight lessens which is bad for short irons. Thus, to compensate, the short irons are made longer which affects how they play. If you opt for .370 or parallel shafts as opposed to CW tapered shafts, you need a clubmaker who can weight the short irons so your PW is not an inch over it proper length for your size just to obtain the proper heft (SW).

Just ordered the Golds #2 without the insert.

As a second note, I would be very careful ordering the 1050 down in R unless you demo first. The combination of the high launch, lightweight shaft, and softer flex may result in very high weak shots that just drop in the wind with no punch at all, even for folks who are textbook R due to their swingspeed.

1150s play more like DG with a lower launch, the 1050s down have a higher launch and are CPM softer than standard spec flexes. (probably due to a softer tip and butt.)

I play the 950GH stiff in my irons, but they would be way too light and soft for wedges. I play the Rifle 5.5 Spinner shafts in the wedges. I do not see where Tour Spec offers the Rifle spinners as an alternative. I would probably go with DG S300 as an alternative. I found I just cannot chip consistently or escape the sand with light weight shafts.

Does Endo forge the KZG iron and wedge lineup?

Any photos of the black blades. They are heavier than the satin finish, what is the black finish?

You may want to consider the Fourteens, but shafts are limited to heavy weights. I have both the Miura (tournament blades) and the Golds blades. The Golds are more forgiving but the Miura are a tad softer.

What is your favorite wedge? Which have the best feel and playability?

A good tip is to just swing a rope as a golf club and get it to snap through the impact zone. If you cast or get armsy the rope will sag all over the place. Stop at the top of the backswing to get the rope laying over your back and then pivot through. Great for the tempo and the transition. Check your set up in a mirror before you start, each time, to ensure you have a good knee flex, bend at the hips and straight upper back and head so that heads off the chest for a full motion back and through. Can do it anywhere and at first it may seem impossible but with practice you can "crack the rope" and really build a dynamic swing powerful swing.

Can you order the Miuras with no printing except the number on the head? I think they will custom grind heads at no extra charge to custom weight the heads so you can play any lightweight shaft you want at your proper length and still have your desired swingweight. So clean heads may be do able.

The Project X is very stiff across the line, more so than standard rifles. The PX 5.0 is a very stiff shaft, both as to butt and tip and plays similar to the DG S. Definitely not suitable for someone usually in the reg or firm range of flexes.