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jamnguy1

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Everything posted by jamnguy1

  1. Personally, i think it's a rebadged FT-5. Different shaft options.
  2. I've owned all of these, including quite a few others such as Gold's factory, Yamaha Inpres, George Spirits, etc. For what it's worth, and this is personal, the Miura MB-5003 are the best irons, blades or cavity backs or whatever, made.
  3. I don't read blogs much. All I know is that TSG has always delivered on the items I've purchased in the proshop.
  4. wow, this thread was originally from 2006 bought these wedges off of ebay in the past and did not like that tear-shape head which were kind of bulbous
  5. That's definitely good information. The other issue with graphite shafts in irons is that they should be parallel according to many clubmakers. That will require some additional work. I don't know if the GD is parallel, but tapered graphite iron shafts are quite inconsistent. Maybe technology has changed. Maybe I'll look at the Fujikura.
  6. That's a big difference in shaft weight going from ns pro 1150 to tour ad 85. I've tried the steelfibre but was not impressed. The benefit of graphite has always been weight reduction. Nowadays, you can get steel shafts as low as 75g. Other than dampening quality, I'm not sure graphite shafts are worth the additional $$$. At the cost of dampening vibration, graphite shafts usually give up some feel as opposed to steel. Of course, everyone's definition or sensation of "feel" can be a little different. That said, graphite shafts have come a long way. I'm not knocking graphite shafts because I think that it looks pretty cool on irons, but I wish there were more of them around to try.
  7. I have a set. They have ideal head size for me and sets up nicely. Also pretty well balanced. I guess since I have played so many Japanese wedges in the past, there was no "wow" factor for me. The color makes them unique.
  8. Yup, older blades like Mizuno, Wilson, maybe Maxfli if I recall. As for the ones I have had in my hands and hit with?, Miura tournament blade about the same as 5003. Next I would have to say Tourstage x-blade 2008. The rest that are slightly thicker include x-blade 901, Pro performance model, Epon blade, Callaway prototype, etc.
  9. jamnguy1 posted a post in a topic in Buy, Sell, & Trade
    I have a couple of Epon Technity wedges, 52 and 58 loft, that was sitting around. It's only had one range session if I recall because I haven't played these. Rifle precision shafts, tour velvet grips. Anyhow, if anyone is into these wedges, they are in 9.5/10 condition. $80 each + shipping.
  10. SF206 easy to hit, goes long I used to own a JC-606 driver. Unfortunately, it turned me off to all Fourteen drivers.
  11. Tests like these confirm that with the PGA and R&A limits placed on driver heads, it is unlikely that one manufacturer's driver is going to significantly outdistance each other. These drivers all have near maximum allowable COR, and all the manufacturer can do is to play around with placement of the center of gravity to affect ball trajectory. This a good player can do with any workable driver by either hitting lower or higher on the driver's face. Other than the negligible effect of driver head shape, the only difference between the titleist D2 and D3 is the location of the center of gravity. That said, depending on a person's swing characteristics, there is something to be said about finding the right shaft that loads correctly for an individual swing, not to mention feel. However, there hasn't been that much published research in this area as well.
  12. For someone who needs to get the ball up in the air, I agree with everyone that recommends a 5- and a 7- wood, even a 9-wood. There's no shame in playing woods as long as if it improves your game. Honma makes pretty forgiving woods, but from my experience, most JDM woods and hybrids are quite difficult to hit for a high handicapper. If you can get away with thinking about only owning JDM clubs, I would recommend trying the Tour Edge Exotics XCG woods and hybrids.
  13. I was not impressed with the KB Tour. Not as accurate, and I draw the ball with them. I had a tighter dispersion with the NS Pro, and feel was close, but I'd give the edge to the NS Pro for feel too. But for $20 a shaft, go ahead and try for yourself.
  14. jamnguy1 replied to Henry's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    It's the SUV of push carts. Fairly inexpensive. I don't use it much as I ride 90% of the time. But it fits in the small trunk of the Ferrari. Clubs in the passenger seat. No room for the wife. What more can you ask.
  15. Now that I own all 3 sets. The black in the picture looks glossy, but it is actually more of a matte finish. Shafted it with NS PRO 999GH and looks great. The dark chrome doesn't look that dark, and is quite subtle. More like a metallic chrome, something that you see on one of those old, high quality Cadillac chrome bumpers. From a visual standpoint, I like both finish better than the Satin finish. The dark chrome finish looks like it will get beat up with play.
  16. I think he was trying to be funny.
  17. jamnguy1 replied to Henry's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Not Japanese, but Clicgear 2.0. Best push cart out there and with many different color versions.
  18. 5003 is softer feeling than tournament blades. Tournament blades has that clickier sound and denser feel. That may be good or bad depending on what you're accustomed to. Both address nicely. Baby blades has very small head and looks like the tournament blade with 1/4 of the head chopped off. It looks funny with a regular length shaft and hard to hit. I was not terribly impressed with any of the Miura or Miura Giken offerings, with the exception of the CB-301, until the 5003 came out. Getting the right shaft is equally important to get the desired feel.