ant

i'm interested in heavy heads so i went and checked the specs on their mbs and they are roughly on par with miura mbs "for steel" version (about 2g heavier on average?) and lighter than miura mbs "for carbon" version. not to highjack but whats the heaviest jdm blade heads out there ? anything heavier than miura mb "for carbon" version ?

i'm not on facebook often but some time ago when s-yard facebook page link got posted here i went to check it out and thats the impression i got back then. dunno whats so crazy about it dog.

sure, if you say so, tho i'm pretty sure it was run by you at least a little while back.

well, since s-yard facebook page is run by tsg i'm sure Tario has much more info than he has currently shared on here ;)

like the grind on them.

nice!

ok, now i can definitely see its not a diy job :) dragon crown does look real cool too but its more like an art piece, i know something like that would bother me at address. i think matte finish is the way to go on a gamer.

looks great! any chance you can get a writeup from him on how to do this? unless its one of those dont try it at home kids things and requires pro skills and tools.

i'm thinking about this for a new driver build. sort of gone in circles but i just like how bb bend profile feels to me. have old bb in my 3w and not touching that.

i'm sure by now a few folks must have tried this shaft. any feedback on how it feels and plays ? how is it different (in practice not on paper) to original blueboard ? seen some pretty positive reviews on the net but nothing here. not exotic enough to get much traction here or nothing special about this shaft to rave about ?

that kamui fw head doesnt look like it can bend much, looks like the hosel is way too short and even if you can grab it securely you most likely gonna ruin that head trying to bend it that much. you might be able to torch it and even if it survives it not gonna look nice after that either. another thing, doing so would affect face angle as well so you gonna end up with pretty closed face so thats another thing to consider.

curious how these differ from modus3 tour 130.

they dont do anything for your game, they just different alloys ie means to achieve given head design goals. taking them out of the context not gonna help you with club selection, you just gonna get bogged down in manufacturing issues that are beyond yours or anybody on this forum for that matter expertize. if you are simply curious why different alloys are used there are various reasons for that like with anything else ranging from manufacturing process eg some alloys are easier/cheaper to weld than others to strength properties needed for a given design eg some alloys are stronger/can be heat treated to be stronger than others as well as tensile properties needed for a given club head design.

i'd get something with more bounce based on what you say, maybe 10 like idrive said, maybe more like 12. it also depends on what kinda wedge it is because effective bounce number is good to start with but how it actually plays would differ also depending on how wide the sole is, relief and camber eg some wedges that have high bounce number on them dont play that way. so if you gonna be using 58 from sand and there is often hard packed sand where you are try to find something that has high bounce but also aggressive heel relief so you can get less bounce when you need it. have a look at scratch grinds, they do alot of digger grinds i think and from jdm there is a really cool yururi tour wedge on tsg here which i think has loads of heel relief. i havent hit it (always wanted to tho), just a suggestion based the way the grind looks and its specs. those heel/toe aggressive relief wedges are harder to play, they less automatic (less stable) and you have to be more precise with them to make them work to your advantage, just something to note.

i would second that but with K you cant really open it much on a very hard packed bunker shot because them knuckles will get in the way and add bounce so if there is no give in that sand you cant play it that way and you either chip it if its a low lip or if its higher lip and clean soft pitch wont be enough loft you gonna be pretty much screwed with K if you need more loft unless your name is Seve Ballesteros.

if you are looking for just one wedge i'd say you gonna have to get very creative with it. for very hard bunkers you gonna need something with lots of loft, narrow sole and very little bounce which gonna make things more challenging for you off very soft stuff especially if you a digger like you say. get at least two wedges like 56 high bounce and 60 low bounce or whatever suits you.

K is great wedge. knuckles grind is very versatile. if you are not doing flops off tight/hard lies it wont let you down. heavy head weight and i mean heavy which is a big plus in my book. its too soft for its own good tho and takes damage way too easily and i guess that would apply to grooves as well so given its not off the rack kinda cheap might not be the best investment if you play/practice alot. you can always resharpen them grooves tho. thats probably the only negative thing about it. the only improvement i can think of otherwise would be if they made it feel the same super buttery soft on small shots like it does but at the same time made it feel firm on full shots.

these are very good looking proper blades, glws!

thats the thing i was trying to explain in my previous posts, i dont think those are real club head speeds as measured. they look like they are calculated from 1.48 constant and measured ball speed. for example if the tester was in reality making a less solid contact with say smash factor of 1.40 on average then that would have been 105+ club head speed. since 1.48 is constant there for every single shot i dont trust those club head speed numbers. for example that slice with jbeam, i think the tester stepped on it and club head speed was actually higher than calculated but thats just a guess. anyways, the only interesting numbers to me were those related to spin and trajectory. there is nothing in there that solidly can point that one head is hotter than the other. forgiving, maybe but we already heard that from reviews and feedback posted here.

sounds like you didnt understand my post at all. here is distilled version for you. it looks like trackman doing the math from ball speed and disregarding club head speed measurement ie clubhead speed is calculated from max soft limit of 1.48 and ball speed ie club head speed read didnt make sense to software in relation to launch parameters so it got dropped and then assumed each shot was flushed with 1.48 so it cannot really tell what club head speed and smash factor really were on any of those hits and thats why smash factor is so consistent because its taken as constant. was it due to mis**ts or software problem or trackman setup i do not know bit it doesnt look right.

and how did you arrive at that conclusion ? trackman has no idea whether any given shot is a mis**t or not, it cant tell where contact is made on the face. i dont see a single great result there with zero in that comparison. there is one big ass slice with jbeam and couple of hooks with zero and seems that zero comes worse in both distance and dispersion in that comparison. so does that mean whoever tested it mis**t zero every single time ? based on the numbers zero launch and trajectory looks better and if ball speed didnt suffer (due to mis**t or some other factor) and not as much side spin has been inflicted then it would be longer carry and with more roll too. thats what it looks like to me.

yeah, thats the stuff although numbers there are kinda funny a wee bit. 3 things there that to me work as distance differentiators: 1) ball speed is lower with zero; 2) launch is lower with zero; 3) spin is higher with zero and it also seem to translate more into sidespin with zero which again contributes to distance loss. good thing about zero seem to be shallower angle of descent which should translate into more roll. those are normalized numbers tho meaning they are derived from trackman trajectory model based on launch conditions instead of raw captured data. also 1.48 constant smash factor on every single shot looks wrong, even pga tour players have at least 0,01 variations. maybe its a software issue, like if club head speed read would make no sense against ball speed read it might revert to 1.48 and discard club head speed read replacing it with calculation instead so its not immediately clear (to me anyway) why zero produced lower ball speeds, was it due to lower club head speed or less than optimal impact location or the head itself. interesting stuff anyway.

looking forward to that! if you gonna be bringing trackman for the numbers it would be really helpful if you can post complete printouts with all the numbers afterwards at least for xerobound as that should help to understand what each head really does.

problem with Mizuno craft drivers is that there is very little info on them. i was looking at craft like 2 gens back but couldnt find any info or feedback on them so you guys posting here about how stocked you are and giving some details on flight and shape really helps, i'm seriously considering 611 now based on that info and the fact that it can be ordered flatter (i think its idiotic that they make 45+ long drivers with a lie angle of a standard 5 iron and practically no safe options except for pray and torch ~1k head to bend it flatter). mizuno non-jdm drivers dont seem like they really help the brand rep. last time i tried one which was part of bag hire it was a hooking machine with loads of spin and i hated it. so i guess thats why most people would be wary of them kinda like yeah great irons but drivers not so good stigma.

i have both and alpha and ax. ax is a different shaft from alpha. maybe they use the same technology in both but ax is their fw specific design. feels quite a bit different from alpha which felt alot smoother than ax to me which is weird because on paper ax is supposed to be a less stout shaft eg higher torque numbers than the alpha and mid kick instead of mid/high kick for alpha but feel is subjective and really depends on swing so dont quote me on that. ax is good at two things : distance and (surprisingly) accuracy (i found its usually one or the other) dispersion is really good and the shaft is predictable. launches high, similar to alpha. tho how it felt didnt work for me and i went back to blueboard instead i think ax performs great as fw shaft if the feel works for you.