theblake

Try some cheap "foam rubber insulation tube" (google that) thats sold in hardware stores for a few bucks. Its normally used as a sleeve over hot/cold water pipes. I just slice it and tape to the push cart mounts so its like a cushion, and it holds standbags perfectly, protects the legs mechanisms and prvents abrasions the mounts can make on bags. Its ugly but awesome. I also made up some lengths with velcro straps to attach to hire push trolleys when on holiday, but i fail to remember to bring them along every time. So not sure how well that would work

I changed the gaps from 8iron up from 4 degrees, to 5 degrees, which allowed me to lose 1 club, so that often I only carry 13. was 38,42,46,50,54,58 now 38,43,48,53,58 tossed out the PW which is half useless being the same length as GW- really, whats the point. Would like to do the same for longer irons but that means bending them too much or dropping one stuffing up weight progressions, so not really practical in a 4 iron up configuration. If a player had only 6 iron up in irons it would be a peice of cake to have 12 clubs and no gaps. * sorry supo, but I didnt steal this idea from you, I arranged this a year ago, but great minds think alike hey!

I have acquired a Honma TW727 455S with additional marking PROTO-OMN under the Tour World designation, and no loft marking. but to my eye it surely is the 10.5d. A golfer that i might know that might play on Japan tour might have asked me to sell it for him, but i think i might keep it for myself. Anyone know what the actual head weight might be on one of these? ( dont want to pull it apart just to weigh it just yet) and are the weight screws in the sole designed to be changeable, or are they really only there for aesthetics?

any condition considered I have a T.388 in 9 degree in VGC that I could trade

and I thought Supo was japanese!

Not really guaranteed yet, maybe Thursday. I will let you know

I have no idea. That is the reason I leave the club building to my professional! He ( Gary Tozer) is coming up from Newcastle this week, bringing my clubs with him. Meeting at Retco on Thursday

I sent the 388 that I purchased from Hutchy, it was 192.7 grams to my my clubmaker, who calls me on Friday and says he filled it with as much hotmelt as he could and it's still too light, around C8. So I asked him to just add lead tape, as I don't want it longer than 44", which means I need the head at 202-203grams. I will be getting it back on Thursday so will see how it goes then. I am using the Nunchuk shaft in it, which is especially suited to shorter shaft lengths. I suspect that everyone who found this club too unforgiving, was playing it too long. Seems to be a trend of the JDM market to make drivers lighter and longer now.

I think this needs a 43.5" shaft., then the smaller head won't matter

From memory 1/2" is 3 swing weight points, and 2 deg of lie angle.

Every golfer that has SS of 90mph or less doesn't have the same spin rates, so I politely suggest that spin is not the problem, it's the symptom of technique. My mum is a 70yo 25hc and uses a 12 deg driver, her ball flight is fine. I suggest read this, noting the conclusion, if it's too much detail. http://www.tutelman.com/golf/ballflight/whatMatters.php ball speed is a significant factor in driving distance, but launch angle and spin are somwhere between insignificant and zero. I think your first step is to get a series of lessons. No single piece of equipment is going to bring about enough change to your numbers.

my SS is 96-98mph and its fine ! its one flex for everyone, even my nanna can hit it. You got to take everything that you know about golf shafts, throw it away and start again. know it well, they import the Nunchuk shaft, so they can tell you all about it.

IMHO there is only one shaft that' suits this requirement , it is heavy, counterweighted and off the scale stiff, and I have 16 of them By the looks of your address you are close to me, so why not come down the hill for a look and a hit.(Bring the T388 with you!) Google Nunchuk by Nventix, there is a small discussion thread on this board too.

I tried a 12d and it was horrible. I gave it to my mum I think if you go down this path, you need much heavier head and shaft

it is a great idea what Terry Kohler is doing with his new brand Ben Hogan golf in concept but absolute rubbish in their application http://www.benhogangolf.com/ft-worth-15 Despite what they say, the iron set is only 7 heads, in other words a 4 iron to PW. We all know how expensive molds are, and you can tell from their specs chart that they obviously just make 7 heads, and bend them up to 2 deg in either direction, if necessary as tolerances will also give them a variation. Then stamp a number on them. I emailed them to ask what their head weights were - no answer. each head, comes in four variations of loft. The shortest head, obviously equivalent to PW is 44 to 47 degrees, the longest which is a 4 iron length/head weight, is 20-23 degrees. If you get these irons, you are still ended up with what the big brands are doing, stronger lofts throughout and you still need Gap wedges. I would have been a fan if the shortest head was 47-50 degrees, then i can get my 9 iron at 46deg then 4deg/7gram gaps down from there. With my shorter shaft i need heavier heads so this would be ideal.

My thoughts: I think it's disgusting :-). One day we will be playing 5 hybrids and 6 wedges. I have my iron heads bent back to 48 PW and 4 deg gaps down to 4 iron at 24. I am pretty sure that 20 years ago, 9&PW were the same head weight and shaft length. The clubs I have now the PW&GW are the same ( which means less of a distance gap if 4 degrees apart, another story) So if we now have 44deg PW, what is its shaft length and headweight. It is all three factors that make the club comparable to the other, not loft alone. Another issue is that the modern heads have a lower COG, so stronger lofts are used to keep ball flight down. So it is not necessarily a bad thing to have a stronger loft, provided that shaft length is not increases. Then we have a club that is easier to hit. But after all that. They still don't have to lie about the numbers :-)

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply it is not conforming. What is the actual COR? I am wondering if the smaller head is limiting the COR by design. I really don't remember what size heads were around when the ruling bodies first imposed the limit.

If you wanna do something really cool, dont put numbers on them! Use old fashioned names or some other unique descriptor. that will confuse the bludgers who try to check what club you have selected.

What is the COR on this driver? If it is still the maximum of 0.83 then in theory it should be just as long as every other driver (if all other factors are the same) I like the idea of this smaller heavier head with a Nunchuk shaft (104g)

Needs to be cold, like below 20. So that when you dry the clubface it immediately "fogs" up again

It's not a theory, two other people have said to me also that it is no good in the rain, and I know only 3 people that have used one, the third guy is the one who sold it to me. I took it a step further to figure out why ( I have also played in rain plenty of times in indonesia, no problem there). In June/July head out to a driving range when it's a cool foggy evening, and watch the balls fall out of the sky. I have sent a couple of emails to Epon, no reply, My mate is an EPON clubmaker, he couldn't get a reply from his Epon contacts either.

is it really the black IP face like the Limited 101? I hope they have improved on it. as I have said before, when its cold and wet the black face is terrible, no spin and the ball goes nowhere. I have sandblasted the face off mine, which improved it a little but its hard to tell, because I live in temperate climate (queensland) it is so rarely cold when it rains. However during a rainy cool day a couple of weeks ago, it happened again on a couple of shots. I showed mine to a metalurgist, and he said its hydrophilic (opposite of hydrophobic). The easy way to verify is to cool it down in a bucket of ice, then wipe the case completey dry with hand or towel. within about 2 seconds the entire face is covered with water again. And as a result, water between ball and clubface and loss of spin.

I wonder if its not the head thats light, just the whole club? I am playing Nunchuk shafts so its being difficult to get the right headweight/shaft combination as need to play these shorter than normal.

What is the actual weight of the head? the PRGR specs only show the weight of the whole club.

I just got the Nunchuk ix iron shafts, and they tick all the boxes. I had planned for quite a while to get the Modus 3 because it seemed to have similar features. In the end the Nunchuk costs twice as much but I have no regrets. Mis-hits and poor swings go straighter and easier to find the middle. Not sure if it can get better than that.