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kaaayelll

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Everything posted by kaaayelll

  1. How are you liking the ID-BL? Not to jack the thread...
  2. Finally got around to this. Put hickory in a KM-350 and put a mid-size Grip Master on it. Had to take the insert down from .370 (belt sander) and put a ferrule upside down. It required sanding of the shaft, and I finished it with low gloss Tung Oil. In all, a fun little (and easy) project. How does it play? The shaft is a lot heavier and its weight distributed. Overall, it produces a very controllable feel...I likey!
  3. That's Lamont Mann's work, right Ian? Keen to know how it is.
  4. Nice taste, my friend!!!
  5. Torching it is probably your best bet to bring out purple, Chris. Too much time with the torch and it will go brown. Of course, metal cleaner (I use Bar Keeper's Friend) will bring it right back to orange. Hope that helps.
  6. They're a couple guys out of North Carolina with three customizable models right now. I have not heard of a single person who didn't love working with them. I am very impressed with the quality of their work.
  7. Guys, if you're not familiar with Low Tide, you need to be. They're making waves with some really high-quality, clean-design putters. This is their Whale Tail model in solid copper, coming in at 365 gms and 34". It's gripped with a black Ostrich Best Grips leather ($50 itself). It has spent about 15 minutes on the practice green, so it's basically new. I've pretty much always been a smaller putter guy, but I had to give this a try because it's so beautiful. The copper will patina if allowed, or can be kept shiny orange with a simple metal cleaner. $old.
  8. The old, "What's your minimum price?" question...my favorite! I don't understand why people don't just make offers.
  9. That looks like patina from what I can see looking on my phone. If it's actually the carbon steel rusting, that would suggest very poor or extremely thin coverage. Patina is from oxidation of copper, but it doesn't damage the metal. The copper will definitely turn brown left untouched, and several things can advance the oxidation. I'd be surprised if that's actually rust, but the quickest way to tell is to use a little metal cleaner. If it turns orange again, patina was the right word. If it shows the carbon steel, whole other story.
  10. These look quite nice. As it relates to copper, I think patina would be used more commonly. And while it certainly relates to oxidation, it's not corrosive like rust is to iron. In fact, the patina on copper actually protects and preserves the underlying metal. Still, copper can be cleaned up SO easily to bring back the brightness if that's desired.
  11. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    +1
  12. Ummm...really? Force = Mass x Acceleration very much applies to ball speed, which, as discussed, is ONE important factor in distance, which is ONE important factor in club selection. As far as I can tell, this discussion - spanning two threads - continues because of a lack of understanding, or an unwillingness to accept, the basic physics. As for Mikey's point, it was well articulated, backed by experience, and conveyed with appropriate caveat. Since we're all looking for combinations that work optimally for us, a suggestion that head weight (higher or lower) is not a factor in optimization is confusing to me.
  13. And we're right back to where Chiromikey started the conversation in the 435/Stinger thread...the math stands, as does his qualifier that swing speed must not be lost. Thanks again for the perspective, Mikey. It would be easier for some to discount if not coming from someone with your game.
  14. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    F = MA is a simple multiplication formula, so it stands that a decrease in Acceleration can be offset by an increase in Mass. Whether or not Force increase or decrease with changes in M and A has to do with the magnitude of the changes in M and A. Simple example: 3 x 2 = 6 3.25 x 1.9 = 6.175 3.1 x 1.9 = 5.89
  15. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    There should an optimal point that opens the possibility that a heavier head (mass) AND a slower swing speed could produce higher ball speeds. Then factor center of gravity, shaft characteristics, and other factors impacting launch angle, spin, stability, etc and we're starting to have fun. ;) Thanks for bringing up an easily overlooked point, Mikey.
  16. The satinized Personals I held a couple years ago looked great.
  17. kaaayelll replied to kaaayelll's post in a topic in Buy, Sell, & Trade
    5W sold.
  18. Sounds like KBS Tour V to me.
  19. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    No place to stuff cotton, and wrapping them in it tends to kill spin. ?
  20. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Yup, makes sense.
  21. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Sweet!
  22. kaaayelll replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Seriously, how are you getting to F3?