neova

Thanks Chris for the insight! I have owned irons from Miura, EPON, and various Kyoei-forged heads (Vega/J.Lindnerg, United, Yururi, etc) but have not tried the current Kyoei models yet. Kyoei heads does feel softer while miura/EPON were clickier. At the end of the day it's all about marketing and selling a story to justify the price.

Hi everyone, I want to apologize for the confusion caused in this thread. Summary: As this was my first transaction with seller, I posted a comment to see if others had received response after making payment. Several other buyers confirmed similar experience so I erred on the side of caution and opened a PayPal case. Eventually the seller reached out and apologized for the delays and explained that he was sick, and also he had other work and family commitments that further delayed reponse. Seller was in the process of refunding my money when I closed the PayPal case so the money was back in his account and the sale went ahead as originally intended. Update: Received tracking number from seller Monday evening with a pleasant surprise: 1) Shipping upgraded from USPS (paid $35) to FedEx expedited (cost $120 extra) which he wasn't required to do. 2) FREE Epon leather iron head covers were included ($100 value and rare item) as a gesture for the delays. Items scheduled to arrive Thursday and will be looking forward to them! Please buy with confidence!

I have closed the PayPal case after communication and clarification with seller and item will ship out Monday Understood, thanks for clarifying!

Sorry about your situation and glad you have recovered! I was not aware you were already dealing with health issues when i purchased from you.

I don't think its anal at all. While buyer beware is the norm we also can't assume every buyer is a club expert and know what to ask for. A used golf club could have a lot of damage / repairs / modification done that cannot be seen unless you know what to look for. All i think we're saying is if you bought a used club share as much info as you can, including info you don't have or didnt verify.

I'm not without fault either but any mistakes were due soley to not knowing or forgetting to check, but never intentional. In my early days of selling golf clubs that I bought used and don't know the history on, my buyers came back with horror stories of: finding a 4 inch drive shaft extension after pulling the grip; a 132g DG X100 iron set with 109g S300 SL labels, etc.... and each time I had to offer discount or take the club back losing shipping both ways... I started learning more about club fitting then club making probably 12 years ago and I would never sell my clubmaking experiments to anyone because of the damage to shaft tips from improper pulls with heads potentially flying off on next swing. I have junked many shafts as a result but it was worth the price to finally learn how to do things properly and allows me greater flexibility to acquire any club I want and don't have to wait for an exact match. I do have a clubmaker i work with but only for loft lie adjustments as i don't want to spend $1000 for a tool i use a coupe timed a year. I also learned there are things you just don't do or it's not worth it: - pulling grips (unless its a Pure grip that uses airgun installstion) - pulling graphite shafts without a shaft puller under very low heat - pulling adaptors (why can't bloody OEMs make metal furrels so it doesn't melt???) - shims to fit narrow shafts into wider hosel or worst > reaming hosel larger to fit wide tipped shafts - shaft extentions more than 1". I might be a hypocrite here as I temporarily have 2.5" extentions on a few of my driver shafts while shopping for new ones. These shafts were damaged during normal play snd and tip cracked soi repaired them. Difference here is that i use a broken graphite shaft to build the butt extention and not those plastic kits and so it's stronger. And i only use it for myself and i remove the extension and sell it as a FW shaft tipped from a damaged driver shaft so i provide full disclosure. That said, right now I'm more of a hoarder on TSG (all buy, no sell) but one day when i need unload my gear it will have all the proper data provided, and transparency on what info I don't have.

Was on the EPON US site reading their history/story http://epongolf.us/story/ then in the "manufacturing expertise" paragraph, they wrote this: "Endo sticks with the time proven forging method of creating a 1-piece head. Other leading brands use another approach. They purchase a raw forged body without a hosel on it. The hosel is spin welded into place to create a 2-piece head that appears like a 1-piece design. While spin welding offers flexibility on the manufacturing side such as varying the club’s offset, it also leads to a different feel at impact. Golfers in general prefer the feel of a completely solid 1-piece design. With a 2-piece head the vibration wave at impact passes through a weld zone in the hosel which leads to a different feel at impact. While some players are accustomed to a 2-piece design most golfers prefer the soft feel of the 1-piece forged design used in the EPON heads." While Miura spin welds to maintain the grain structure of the head, reading the explanation from EPON why a 2-piece forging is less desirable feels like s direct dig at Miura. Question, have they ever collaborated on a product before? Who makes the Miura Woods/Hybrids?

Where would the Miura Baby Blades fit in to this? I had them once and the blade was barely large enough to cover the ball but the feel was awesome when struck well. Club was totally unplayable from the rough and scary to hit even from cleam lies....

I've been using 8.5° to 9° heads and the high tee helps, but recently picked up a couple 10° heads and they balloned with the regular tee height. I had to tee them lower for a more penetrating flight but it also promoted a streper AoA so spin was higher

How people do their BST is largely reflective of how they are as a person. If you can't be bothered to put in the effort to provide a little bit of customer service to make it a positive buying experience then DON'T sell on BST. I'd always say transparency is key, list all the info you have on the club and take as many photos as possible. Be responsive to buyer inquiries and promptly ship out and provide tacking number, rather than taking eons to process the transaction then comming up with lame excuses for the delay (and sometimes not even acknowledging the lateness!) I understand not everyone is going to have the tools or knowledge to properly measure the club specs, but at least be honest about what you do know and don't know so buyer can make an informed decision! Maybe there needs to be a additonal requrements for BST as follows: 1) List where you got the club from. If you're the original owner it helps to include a photo of the invoice/bill of sale. And if bought used and from a TSG member include that info too as there might already be info included about the club from the original BST thread. 2) Outline any modification/repair history on the club since your purchase. Include who performed the work (OEM / Clubmaker / DIY) and why (change after a fitting, trying a new combo, repair after damage...) 3) Advise whether the specs advertised is just the printed specs on the club or OEM specs listed on a website or you actually had it measured recently by who and when. 4) At least 1 photo of the club/shaft should be taken next to a 48 inch ruler so we can visuslly verify the length, including the measurement from the tip or butt end of the shaft to the shaft label/graphic as it usually gives an indication if there was tipping or butt trimming/extension. 5) Unrelated to topic more of a rant - if you don't want to pay Paypal selling fees then incude the 2.9% on top of your asking price. Don't ask the buyer to gift you the money as it offers zero protection should the transaction go south. Besides, Paypal provided you a service to get you your money, why should you feel entitled to skip the fees?

He did eventually answered my pm and the driver is coming my way 😃 I had this head in the LD 7° version and it was ridiculously low spin and launch. This one is 10° and should be much better performing for me as i normally play 9.5° heads

Pm sent on Epon Personals 1st Ltd MB 3-Pw heads

Pm sent

Pm sent on Jbeam TF 13.5

I've never played x flex in irons or wedges beofre, as I find i don't swing aggressive enough to need it for irons which is for accuracy. You're right i need s flex at regular weight (120g) to hit my normal distance otherwise I won't be getting the required height on my irons to hold greens. But I'm experimenting with Recoil 95s for the next build and got both F4 and F5 to try out. I think 20g lighte than what I'm used to it warrants a try with the F5 flex. The reason I choose 95 vs 110 is because I had build a 3 driving iron with a 95x and it is my favorite club so I'm thinking I could game 95 in the rest of the irons. But I'm going with 110 On the wedges as i need some weight I'm also dropping the 70x in driver as I only needed the weight for a 43.5" setup but will go back ro 44.75 or 45 with a 60x as I find i need the length to swing it like a driver because the shorter length tempts me to hit down on it like a FW The reality is I got a rotator cuff injury in fall of 2018 and never swung the same since. While i refuse to change my gamers right away, I'm slowly entertaining the idea of more forgiving clubs so hence this side experiment.

Great topic! As a club ho learning how to do the basic club making allows us to spend the money on clubs and not labour. I started learning myself back in 2010 with a regrip, then moved on to reshafting irons/wedges with steel shafts, and avoided graphite reshafting for a couple years after ruining several $100 wood shafts. I even bought some used crappy $10 used clubs with graphite shafts to practice on until i was comfortable! The only things I don't do at home is adjusting lies, as I have a clubmaker that does a good job and i don't want to drop $$$ on a lie angle machine that I will only use once a year. My golf gear and club making materials have taken up quite a bit of storage in my basement, from laundry room to under stairs storage and next to the gym. Laundry Room - Storage for grips, balls, other golf supplies. Also an inexpensive way to measure club length by using a ruler (Hireko Ruler Buddy) Under Stairs Storage - Extra balls, bags, and shafts (placed in the cavity in between the backside of the dry wall) Basement Gym- where I do daily swing practices in front of a mirror (with a cell phone holder in case I want to do videos). Notice I even exchanged a patch of the gym floor mat with an artificial golf hitting mat so I can do some chipping and punch shots with a foam ball indoors 😃

I've been toying with the idea to build a bag specifically with less than 10 clubs for a couple reason: 1) Sometimes golf gets too complicated when we have too many specific clubs for each and every shot! I remember learning golf with just a PW and hit all of the shots around the greens! 2) it would make walking 18 holes a lot easier 3) I normally play blades in my irons and wanted to include a CB set 4) I wanted to try graphite iron shafts but don't want to reshaft my gamers 5) I want to keep a set in the trunk of my sports car so I could hit the range/course anytime (Pre-Coivd idea) 6) I wanted to have a travel set to bring on vacation as I don't want to risk losing/damaging my gamers With that in mind, I started with build earlier in 2020 wity the following 10 clubs: -Adidas Adizero Stand Bag (2.8lbs) -Epon AF102 9.5° @43.5" / Kai'li 70x -RomaRo Type R UT 3/21° / Kai'li 80x -Fourteen TC888 5-9i / Modus 120s -Titleist SM7 46° / DG Wedge -Seven OG Wedge 56° / PX6 Satin (8i) I've played a couple rounds with this setup from the shortest tees (5500 yards) to Championship tees (7100 yards) and it was a lot of fun! Now I'm thinking of rebuilding this set to have: Driver, 7w, 5h, 6-PW, 52/58, putter, with graphite shafts in the irons and wedges 😃

Just browsing GDO (golf digest online) Japana and found this Ryoma Sniper Fairway Utility. Looks to be a club from 2004. https://shop.golfdigest.co.jp/used/f/dmg_5001041209 Anyone got more info on this? I found a 7 wood / 21* for sale on eBay for $39 and bought it just to try as a 3 hybrid alternative but would appreciate more info on it. Google didn't find me anything on this club.

Pm sent for the 2 Ahina 60x 3W shafts.

PM sent for Yururi