neova

That's a spatula for fried eggs lol

Payment for Yupiteru and DGX100 / DGTI sent!

Pm sent fir yupitel speed meter & DG x100 & DGTI

Slightly different spin to your question, but I've tried 120 to 125 gram Recoil Shafts against traditional steel shafts in that weight. Peformance wise, these "steel like" graphite does provide the same performance as the steel counterparts, but the feel is more muted. You can also feel more of the head with the graphite shafts than steel. Difference? Price. a set of 3-PW Recoils is 4 to 5 times more than steel. Plus I do my on club making, so pulling steel is a lot faster and easier than graphite (very easy to over heat and ruiln tips)..

Give the Taylormade RBZ Stage 2 Tour 14.5 head a try. If he still have the SLDR shaft the adapter will fit the RBZ. My index is 4.6, in my gamer set I use a less forgiving but more workable 3w (Fourteen SF714) but on my backup set I use thewirakble for more forgiveness of any lie, mainly due to the speed pocket and hot face. It is also relatively shallow face with a big footprint. Only problem is workability - it wants to go straight!

That guy has a good swing, with a golfing wife and kid to boot. Watched his video shooting 58 on Golfzon...

Pm sent for i15 head

Pm sent - I'll give these a try!

Problem solved! It's the shaft... in fact all my wood shafts were too light for my swing. I was stupid to experiment this season with a 60g-70g-80g (D / 3w / 3h) stiff shafts thinking I could get a bit more distance but that didn't work out for me. Any gained distance were all to the left! Swapped everything back to 70g-80g-95g this past weekend with x-stiff shafts and just swing and I hit nothing but straight shots with a couple misses ones blocked 15-20 yards to the right (still playable). Getting some confidence back in my woods, now just step up and swing at it, as opposed to being scared of hitting it... PRGR EGG 3W 15* with vs Proto 80x https://youtu.be/VY7ovZL3elU Fourteen SF714 3W 15* with Kai'li Ion 80x https://youtu.be/F0UXdrtgzk8 Based on the limited shots with both 3 woods (I was so happy my driver was working again so i used it more), the EGG is more of a driver replacement than par-5 2nd shot club. It rolls alot (great for tee shots) but I can't imaging how it can hold the green with that trajectory... The rest of my round can be seen here.... http://mygolfingdiary.blogspot.com/2015/09/ridge-of-manitou.html

This could be a useful club to play a short par 4 or long par 3. I know there are hybrids in that loft but for some people they are more comfortable hitting a club with bigger head off the tee. It does the same job as a hybrid in similar loft but it's a mental thing that accounts for half the confidence when you set up.

Noted and will try this setup! Thanks

Good to know the 15 is square. That will take my mind off it and just trust the set up a bit more. I'll definately give it more time.

Very good point on the shallow insert depth its aboit a quarter inch less like an iron insertion depth. I'll add some lead tape to try. If not I'll tip a quarter inch when reshaft. It's playing 43 now and I've had success with 42.75 length before.

thanks guys... i'll give this another try this weekend, if not I'll pull it and put in my gamer shaft and try again...

not familiar with all the EGG gen but it looks like this. I do have another PX 8C4 shaft i could use to reduce the variables....

I picked up the head from Festival Golf while in Japan earlier in May, and wanted to try this fairway wood which has received lots of rave reviews. Currently it's shafted with a Fubuki Alpha 70 Stiff @ 43". This is a shaft that I've been using with my gamer (RBZ Tour Stage 2 14.5*) for 2 years without issue for tee or off the deck shots. First test was on an indoor simulator, and on the tee it gave me crazy numbers - 250ish carry and 275 total, which in my driver territory and certainly about 10 more carry yards and tonnes more roll. I was even able to get similar numbers when hitting off the artifical mats.... so I thought to myself this may be a keeper! Took it to the golf course the following weekend, and started on the range to verify its performance. Started on the tee (on real grass) and I hit nothing but low hooks. All of a sudden the face looked very closed to me when it looked square to open before. So i positioned the ball more in the center and tried again and was only able to hit one solid out of every 3 to 4 shots.... I didn't even bother to try it off the deck. The club did not get any action during the round - just too scary to game! My normal setup with a 3 wood is to play the ball about 2 balls forward of center (i am a sweeper). I'm wondering if I need to do anything different to make this club work? I'll give it an other try, maybe choke down on it and play it more like hybrid/long iron and see if it will improve the result, but I'm curious to know whether it's this particular club or me because I am usually pretty reliable with a 3 wood off the tee or off the deck. Any suggestions welcomed! My 3 Wood Swings https://youtu.be/pL9IqBDsAyE(3/4 side view) https://youtu.be/zu-ib8tN4TE(DTL view)

these look great when r they available?

just picked up a set of TW171M 3-10 and will be reshafting them with PXi 6.0 (3) / PX 6.0 (4-9) / S400 (10, G, L). I will probably remove all of the paint fill and give it a cleaner look. can't wait to hit them!

Modern + Art! Awesome bag!!!

Iron shafts in wedges are only for full swings, but too stiff in partial shots. For my gamers (staff bag), my fourteen wedges have 2 and 3 iron shafts in them just because I had shafts laying around! Those wedges spins well and surprisingly do not ballon despite soft stepped 7 times... On my back up set (carry bag) I'm experimenting with heavy wedge shafts on my wedges (including PW) as I hit lots of partial shots with those. Will probably also put a wedge shaft in my 9 iron in the future so that all my scoring clubs (under 150 carry) gives me good control and accuracy.

I started with just looking at DIY and YouTube videos. Started with just grips - replace old with new, then pulling new ones for reuse on other clubs. Then I started reshafting irons - pretty basics stuff removing and cleaning, then trimming shafts, installing / turning ferrules, etcs all can be done with basic hand tools but pace yourself and learn one thing at a time. Being able to "modify" your golf clubs just provides another way to indulge in golf, not to Merion you can now buy used golf clubs you like and keep the components you want.

thank you!!!

FH 1000 for me... looks and performs great (when the Indian can actually fire the arrow properly!). Played with the FH1000 for a few rounds, hitting from all kinds of lie, one of the most forgiving blade out there (having played Miura 1957 Small Blades and TB). I almost bought the z945 instead of the z745, but my scores take priority and blades just adds a couple strokes to my game so I'm sticking with players CB. Having said that, I still have a set of Adams MB2 blades that just sits there and maybe gets a swing or two at the range, or if I'm playing 9-holes on a short course =)

I will be golfing on vacation and a friend will be lending me his S-Yard U.21 3-AW. I tried to search for it on the web but couldn't find any specs. S-Yard U.21 The closes classic S-Yard iron specs I found was the U101... assuming the U21 would have similar specs? S-Yard U101 Club-Loft Length 3-22* 38.75" 4-24* 38.25" 5-26* 37.75" 6-29* 37.25" 7-32* 36.75" 8-36* 36.25" 9-40* 35.75" P-45* 35.25" A-51* 35.25" Cheers,

Doesn't matter what shaft as I just need the head. If you've got one you don't use let me know. I'm located in Canada but have a US forwarding address in Indiana if you don't ship outside of Conus. Thanks!