neova

Thanks gocchin For the geotech, is the 76mm blade length measured from the bottom of the hostel or from the heel? http://www.geotechgolf.com/catalog/main.asp?cate=h&class=we&no=1675-01&eng=on It seems to suggest there is a new way for measuring face length, wondering if the 76mm is using the new way of measuring starting from the bottom of the hosel vs the heel of the blade? http://www.geotechgolf.com/help/hspec/hspec_help.htm#fl I measured my Miura Small Blade PW from bottom of hosel to toe and got about 75-76mm, and is consistent with the measurement I found from an old thread here showing the measurement from heel to toe is 68mm And given its a component i'll assume it is .370 hosel diameter?

How is this wedge size in comparison to the Miura 1957 Limited "Baby" Small Blade? I just purchased a set of these irons and now my Fourteen RM-11 wedges look HUGE! From the pictures the Geotech looks like it will fit nicely with the small Miura blades... any blade length, toe/heel height measurements available?

Just picked up a Hi610 T.S. @ 24* (4h) and it currently has a SPB S-Flex in it playing at 38.25" (4-iron) length. My current TC930 4-iron is the same length but has a lighter Project X PXi 6.0 in it so we'll see how it goes. My intention is to find a 3-iron replacment (215 carry) club and in the past I've tried many wood-shaped hybrids anywhere from 19 to 22 degrees and it just carries too far with too much roll. So my idea is that a driving iron would not be has hot faced and would land softer, roll less, and if I have a 24* driving iron at 3-iron length it might just be the perfect 3-iron replacement... just based on a couple swings at home the SPB S is a bit heavier so if it plays too differently and carry too short i'll just reshaft with PXi 6.0 at the 3-iron length...

I started club building about 2 years ago so I'll share what I started with: 1) work bench. I built one in the garage about 6ft by 2.5ft deep and it's a must for me to have all my club building tools and supplies laid organized 2) basic vise clap about 2.5" to 3" wide. You will need one of those rubber shaft holder to protect your shafts when mounted in the vice 3) hook blades (for cutting off old grips) 4) grip removal tool (if you want to save grips) I got mine from golf smith 5) small hand held butane torch (also from golf smith) used for removing epoxied heads. 6) hear gun (for removing graphite shaft epoxied heads). Height heat from butane might damage graphite shafts 7) pipe cutter 8) other basic hand tools, mallet, pliers, files, sanding paper, wire brush (to clean hosel), digital scale (for swing weighting), eyc... 9) good supply of ferrules, double sided tape, build up tape, grip solvent, two-part 24hr epoxy, brass shins, acetone, etc... You will make lots of mistakes so extra supplies is a good idea I I have not done any spinning yet )because I'm lazy and would require me disassemble my clubs), and will none be doing any lofty/lie adjustment since a good Mitchell tool is $500+. Local golf shops charges $5 per adjustment so I'd do that instead I would suggest starting with regripping first and see how you like it before taking the plunge on buying all of the tools.

I think the GSA is actually a hong Kong / Singapore product. I bought mine in October 2012 and loves it. It's not meant for club fitting but more for benchmarking you swing so you can see how you improve over time. It's pretty accurate with club head speed but keep in mind the carry yardage is estimated assuming you have a prefect hit so real carry distance will be less. I use the GSA before every round just to see how well/bad I'm swing so I can make adjustments to my club selectionif I'm hitting everything short on the day I'll know to club up! I wrote a pretty detailed review on golfwrx http://golf wrx/forums/topic/736077-3bays-gsa-initial-impression/

My Callaway X-Prototype Muscle Back Blade feels very soft when I mange to hit the penny sized sweet spot, and feels just as good as the TC-930FG cavity back that I've tested (and ordered). I terms of feel (when hit on the sweetspot), i don't think blade, muscleback, or cavity will differ much if they are made from the similar material and forging / casting. Since we aren't Iron byron, we are most likely going to mis**t most of our shots, so then we might attribute "forgiveness" from the muscle back and cavity as having better "feel" than the blade. Thanks from my experience anyways... Golf is a game of mistakes, so less of it the better!

pm sent on the Srixon 3 z-uti