JayDM

You have the WBQ in the P-tune as well Nob? Thinking that's your shaft there mate, seems like whatever you game it in works like a charm.

lol, I want both, I'll wait to receive the blades though, if I love them as much as I think I will, I'll order the CB longer irons as well so I can mix and match a set day to day.

You should call this "Stew's spin sale!" all of these that I've hit spin the heck out of the ball, the Yururi is beyond absurd and the Kyoei's are spin monster's as well. Haven't hit the Yonex or Epon, but those Miura's also zip the ball backwards with authority.

I really like the look of these, I have a feeling they'll be really, really good, setup and play like a blade with CB forgiveness. If I love how the blades perform these will probably be on the radar. Can these be ordered individually T? as in just getting the 3-6 irons?

The P tune is that good huh? That's a pretty stacked lineup, surprised the lighter softer GT6 stiff in the Yam head wasn't the least demanding for ya.

Good thing you posted the pics mate, thought you were talking about the iD Nabla wedges which also have a thin sole.... Ya know what these put me in mind of? Thinner soled Shingo wedge.

No issue with personal preference, everyone has there own opinions, the poster most have been responding to is just mistaken on a few points.... He could say "I don't particularly like the look of the welded neck on this putter" and that would be an opinion, him saying "it looks like a poor soldering job" is misinformation, it's a welded neck first off, which has been stated, not soldered, and the quality of the weld is in NO way poor...

Maybe.... Just Maybe... Diamana is taking a clue from how well loved there limited editions and prototype shafts are(Stingers and X's) and is trying to translate that to the retail market. I never loved the older whiteboard or kali'l or the blueboard or ahina, none of those performed poorly, but they all felt extremely mediocre and there were plenty of shafts out there that felt nicer and delivered as good or better performance, whereas the Stinger and the X perform like a champ and have a much more interesting feel through the ball..... If the W series performs up to the standard the B series is performing then I think the new Diamana series will be a serious winner.

Gold's is probably going to be the absolute top of the top end, it's reflected in the price, I haven't seen anything else out there.... at all.... that puts as much attention to detail as GF does. There may be other brands/makers with more options in certain respects, but as far as what he can do to actually improve the way a putter performs I don't believe that there is anyone else out there quite as particular or as driven by perfection. That said, I have seen others that I find to be at least as attractive if not more so in certain respects, but purely looking at the attention to detail each piece is getting, GF is probably going to be tops.

I honestly don't know about a FW as its the one club in my bag I don't buy every new one that interests me, and I'm pretty sure the Technity I game doesn't use Ti in the face, but in a utility I believe the Romaro Ray Type R, is 100% the longest ute I've ever hit, I believe it has a TI face. I'm pretty sure all of the other utes I own do not have TI as the face material, and none of the others feel nearly as hot off the face or generate the distance this club does....

I like the thick face on that Lajosi, bet it feels great.... I've found the finishes on his customs the most interesting and unique. Never seen one up close or hit them, but they look great in pictures.

With the speed he swings the club, if he really gets all of the ball and some really great wind, drives of that distance are 100% not out of the question. I forget who it was at this year's British open, but just as I tuned in on saturday they measured a drive to 440 something total distance.....

That's smoking..... Are they available? or is this like a future release?

I don't think you'll find anything in a ute that will give you near as much distance as a stronger lofted 3 metal, especially a club designed for easy distance like the EGG, the TRC bbd's utes usually come out with a 17*, but those aren't really distance focused utes.... Maybe try a stronger lofted 3 wood that's geared more towards control with a smaller head, and deeper face, it'll set up more like a utility and give you the distance of a FW.... I've at times replaced a 3 wood in the bag with the TRC 17* ute/ Crazy ute shaft combo, but normally that's when the course or conditions call for it, I've more than once wished I could get rid of the 3 wood entirely, but I just haven't really found anything that's a true replacement for it.... You're yardage gaps will just be massive if you have a driver and then something like the I-brid 17* in the bag as you're next longest club, but if you're 100% dead set on getting rid of the 3 metal I wouldn't focus so much on the loft, an easier to hit 18* is going to go further for you than more of a control oriented 17* or even 16* utility, shaft is a big deal too... I have a RomaRo ray forged type R 18* with the Quadra proto UT shaft in it, and in good weather it's consistently longer than the TRC 17* with Crazy ute shaft.

Why do you want to replace the EGG I+ utes?

"Superman HiCor"? What's that? Never heard of it before, would be interested to see some pictures and know who makes it.

I'm really glad that it's an 18.5* mold, I normally like to tweak with the lofts and wouldn't have really wanted to if they had already bent the heads, fact that 4 is stamped on the sole doesn't really matter to me... The lack of a lower loft kinda pushed me in the direction of not ordering the driving irons, might have to grab them now.

I'm assuming its a 21 bent to 18.5?

how large is the head?

How was the Buchi driving iron mate? I just gave Tario all of my final specs and custom options for a set of MB's and 2 wedges yesterday, and I've been on the fence considering picking up the driving iron as well? Let me know how that one went.

Thanks for the info mate, solid as always. I'm constantly thinking of a putter done by the master and I get a million and one ideas running through my head and cant seem to make any choices, I know I like the original horizontal PZ milling in an insert, but beyond that I overthink it. Then I think about having something re-done and cant figure out which head.... soooo many choices.

I'm pretty sure I've seen one of his inserts listed as "German Silver" on the Ryu Zen putter I think it was, I've always been curious about that, any info on the benefits?.... I've always thought of J.I.S sus303 and GSS as basically the same metal, I've seen your testing which proves that pretty conclusively, I believe the sus303 had slightly more chromium, which is the element that makes steel "stainless steel", a steel alloy with more that 10.5% chromium is considered a stainless steel.... When I think of the base head material for a putter I would general think standard carbon steel(s20c, s25c) vs. stainless(gss, sus303). Can anyone clarify a few things about the base Gold's Factory putter heads? I've seen two, one that looks very similar to a Scotty Newport and another(believe its the GF00A) that looks similar to the other but with slight differences, any info on the differences on these two heads? Which is shorter from heel to toe? Both have a plumbers neck, any other base heads from Gold's with a shorter neck or a flow neck? Any other base heads from Gold's period(blade sahpe maybe)? Does he still have any base heads in carbon steel, some of his older base heads I've seen in carbon steel, but any of the newer models all use sus303. Chime in guys.

Yup, I prefer the wings stamped protos wedges to the butterfly stamped Toyos.... The butterflys are much spinnier, raw milled face really grabs the ball, they always want to spin those... The wings stamped ones are much more accurate(for me anyway), much more controllable and they bite well, but not too much, can knock em down a bit and get em to check up nicely. Anyone know if there's any real difference between the most current model of the Toyoshima Crazy wedges and the previous model(s), besides the fact that they're plated? Is the grind any different? I've always wanted to try the DWD wedges, but I always get sidetracked, a few years ago I bought a set of Gold's custom wedges(which are absolutely tops)instead of those and I just ordered a set of the Buchi wedges....

Strangely enough, I've never really got along well with the Crazy Toyo wedges, They're not bad wedges I just can never really get dialed in with them, cant really put my finger on why though, possibly the grind, but I've always enjoyed similar grinds on other wedges... Maybe the graphite wedge shafts, the only irons or wedges I have with graphite in them, but when I hit them I never really feel much difference from steel.... Idk, weird, lol, but I do really like the prototypes I have, those are pin seekers, very accurate, and they feel sublime. I'm talking about these two sets btw:

With the way technology has improved over the years, specifically in this instance, metallurgy, it's very easy for them to be consistent, modern steels are so fantastic and so exact, its in no way, shape, or form a guessing game.... If someone making putters is using a Damascus steel I highly doubt that they're just grabbing whatever comes out of a crucible, I have no way to be certain, but I can be reasonably sure that whatever is going into the Damascus steel are going to be materials that have some positive affect on some aspect of putting, I would also bet that its a fairly exact material(s) and that each and every billet they're using is extremely similar in composition.... Warren, better forward roll will probly come more from the milling then from the particular steel, pick the steel you like the feel of and improve it with a milling pattern that works for you, and weighting and specs that fit your game...