acrazygolfer

With the combined results, the X-drive has a pretty big sweet spot.

Any idea on the head weight of the titleist and the nike? According TT, the Speedsteps were designed to be 30% lighter than the standard steel shafts and therefore it could be a cause of those pulled shots. With your SS, you may want to try heavier shafts and may be a bit stiffer flex too.

... and I'm also learning to trust the distance with them wedges. 60*/60 yards; 56*/80 yards; & 52*/100 yards based on full swing instead of babying the swing.

Ahhhh! Umhhh! Ohhhhh!

I've a 3, 5 and 8 Z101 w/s300 and there's no problem with these clubs. At a sesssion with the pro today, it appears the problem was caused by me "hanging on" to the club and not releasing it which caused the face to be slightly opened at impact. Such a duffer that I am!

Good idea. I'm going to the mirror plus taping the swing for review on C-swing. BTW, I'd the lies checked and they were to spec. Thanks guys.

4-PW (Mills MBs w/TC S3 & NC-1s w/1150 stiff) are straight or with a slight draw. The wedges (52, 56 & 60 w/S300 w/slider grinds), with the same swing, are fading on me . I've to aim 10 to 15 yards to the left of the flag to get the ball near the flag. Due to an on/off problem with tennis elbow, the swing path was changed about 2 years ago and so the divot is very shallow with the irons. Any idea?

How much for a set? Head only or shafted?

It appears to be between the 2nd and 5th groove for a standard ball flight. For a lower and more penetrating flight, such as into the wind, just a tad lower.

Chris, Winter is over so the snow flake putter cover is going into hiatus. When available, the entire set of the "five leaf clover" would be a bomb! Please reserve a set for me.

I walk so staff bag is out of the question. However, having used walk bags from numerous manufacturers, and after acquiring a Tourstage bag, I've to give praise to The worst ever was the Miz Kabuki.

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Please attach pictures of the items. Thanks.

No offend taken since we are here to ask questions and to learn. Chris, Any feed back on the Black and Gold? Thanks.

Lengthen or shortening the club will affect total weight, swingweight, flex and lie. You can either: (1) change the lie angle before pulling the shaft; or (2) install new shaft, adjust the lie angle to 2* upright and butt trim to desire length. Here is an interesting point. Anatomically, shorter persons have shorter arms and vice versa (of course there are freaks). If you have been playing with shorter clubs for years, you may have had adjusted and be accustomed to bending over more or having a wider stand or both. Adding 1 inch means you would have to change your current swing set up and swing path, etc. Before replacing the S300, I'd pull the grip and add either a steel or an aluminum shaft extender, adjust the lie and butt trim to desire length. Once you are comfortable hitting with a longer club and after changing the swing set up and still want lower ball flight, you can start searching for new shafts. This alternative is much cheaper than paying for a new set of irons, have the old ones pulled, re-shaft, adjust the lie, butt trim, re-grip, etc. which in the end you may not be happy with.

I don't have the distance problem experienced by you. However, after two rounds and three range sessions, it appears I'm about 5 to 7 yards shorter with the TC S3 as against the 1150 in the NC-1s. Am thinking the lost distance is attributable to:(1) the softer steel used in the Milled MBs versus the steel in the NC-1s, and (2) the S3 is similar to the 1050 (I was in fact shorter with the 1050 than the 1150. May be the TC X1 is more similar to the 1150. Any one with experience with the X1 and 1150?

Please add pictures of the items. Thanks.

Am so afraid to ask ....

John, I found them. Eight (8) shafts in all 3-PW. Blue Thunder by Fujikura, FN-FF model. These were shafted to Hogan Apex Edge so they are standard .370 tip. No tipping and played to standard lenght (I think) for graphite irons. Lamkins Crossline grips. I think these shafts were imported into the US by a something "Oak" company in/around 1995 when I bought them, before Fujikura came directly to the US. If you're interested, PM me your address so I can check the cost of shipping. Ben

I've a set of Fujikura iron shafts in stiff flex ... actually, Blue Thunder by Fujikura, that were manufactured in the 90's. I played with them for few months before going back to steel shafts. If I can find them, they are your for free just pay for the shipping.

Talking about softness, I don't what composition of steel is in the Milled MBs but them irons are soft. I don't think I can go any softer.

Wrapped my fingers around a set of Milled MBs today. For being a MB, it is as forgiving as the NC-1s and buttery soft.

Amen to that Blader X! Personal delivery by the current owner after I'm stepping off of the 18 greens tomorrow afternoon.

Good point regarding daily stretching exercises. I spent at least 20 to 30 minutes every day doing core and stretching exercises. Old habit from surfing and paddleboard since these two sports are the worst on your lower back.

My first thought was ... sh*t! I'm going loco and hearing voices. Then I realized that I swung the Milled MB this past weekend and the clubs indeed are calling my name.