FAQ

Looks like a great swing to me!

The KZG Gemini 395cc. This driver wants to go straight. I have one with a square head and this thing finds the fairways. Total confidence at the tee. Not the longest, Not the best sounding, Not the highest quality workmanship, but it works and works very well.

You won't find anything about the Z's on any Japanese site. They are domestic release only and now they are discontinued as well. Here's the specs. Unit 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 PW Loft (deg.) 17.5 20 23 27 31 35 39 43 47 Lie (deg.) 60 60.5 61 62 63 63.5 64 64.5 65 Length (inch) 39.25 38.75 38.25 37.75 37.25 36.75 36.25 35.75 35.25 Offset (mm) 3.5 3.5 3.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Swingweight D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3

Scoop Pierson.... I love it... :surprize:

Great irons. One of the best. I've tried many but I still keep the Z's. New I paid over $900 w/ 2 iron. Used, depends on the condition.

Robbie, are you kidding? Definitely don't go by any yahoo.com or hotmail.com address and assume it's for real just because it says tmtourvan... :roll:

Chris has them for sale now... See http://www.tourspecgolf.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=26

FAQ, Do you have pics of their recent groove work, it was really iffy in the past. Alost of ramping. Didn't effect play but, didn't look that great either. Light, I don't have any photos. You might want to contact them for anything they could send you.

Tai: That's a good idea. I've done that for a guy in Canada before. The paper work is a huge hassle but it kept the costs down. Sorry to hear about the driver problems Patrick. Jim

For Irons... This classic place has come back from some illnesses in the family. Now it's rockin... http://www.theironfactory.com/ Note: These guys will bring the weight and grooves back to original spec. For Woods... http://www.signaturegolf.com/ Not cheap, not fast, but fantastic both in paint used and quality of work.

Everyone is different, but I have the HK-80 in my 3, 4, 5, and 7 woods. I change my woods out with UT's and change my bag around, so I have different FW's and UT's. I've been using them in every FW for a couple of years now and there really isn't anything else I've tried that has been better. The only exception to this is that I have a 2 Wood that Joe Kwok set up for me and it really needed a little more trajectory. He put a 27.3 Fujikura in it and that has worked out very well.

It's a different grind. Take a look at http://www.zodia.biz/premium.htm and compare to... http://www.km-golf.com/kmweg02.htm. Might be a little hard to see, but you will get the jist of it.

It looks like components to me. Nothing wrong with that, but with the drivers, I don't see how they can be competitive in today's market without offering a larger head size.

From www.swingweight.com - If you put a new shaft in that is heavier or one that has a lower balance point than your current shaft, you will get a higher weight as well. Making clubs lighter is a bit more difficult. You can have the current shaft replaced with a lighter one or you can have some length cut off to make the club shorter. You might not be able to tell the addition of 1 swingweight, but most players can tell additions of 3 or more. A test you can do yourself is to tape a dime to the back of your club. A dime adds approximately 1 swingweight. Most golfers, regardless of their skill level can’t tell the dime was added. Now tape quarter to the back of the club. The quarter adds about 3 points; most players can tell this addition.

Shigeki Maruyama MR-23 Cavity Back Specs: .355 taper tip. #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 PW Lie Angle 60.5 60.5 60.5 60.5 61 61.5 62 62.5 63 Loft Angle 18 21 24 27 31 35 39 43 47 F Progression 4.15 4.15 4.15 4.45 4.45 4.45 4.45 5.25 5.25 Length 39.25 38.75 38.25 37.75 37.25 36.75 36.25 35.75 35.25 Weight (S200) 409 412 417 423 430 437 445 451 459 Weight (X100) 411 414 419 425 432 439 447 453 461 Balance D2 (S200 X100)

Jimmy: See http://www.fujikuragolf.com

Here's a couple photos of one I had.

It's a good driver but it's not conforming.

http://www.chipandputt.com/ Chip Usher is good to deal with for Sonartec.

That is a sweet looking mallet! :cool:

I forget where I copied this information from, but thanks... Here are some versions of the R510 that I know of. Some are Tour and some are not. *R510 - first issue that was non-conforming, and did not have any lines in the center of the clubface! 330cc, and .350 tip shaft, and a COR of .860 *RC510 - same as the above, except "conforming"...had the "circular" lines in the center of the clubface, and .350 tip shaft *The RC510 Version, except the hosel was .335 and the COR was .830, and normally there was no serial number; therefore, a real "tour issue" *R510 DF Proto - this was the tour issue version that was 390cc and had the line under the loft; this model was both .335 and .350 tip shaft, with the .350 being the rarest of all. *R510 TP - this was a copy of the above listed, and most, if not all were the .335 tip standard wood hosel. There was a R500 series that has been confused with the R510 series of drivers, and these are true "prototypes"; and reportedly, less than 360cc of head volume and the maximum COR of .830!

I've reshafted one. Worked fine. The clubmaker just has to be careful he doesn't heat it too much because of the foamed head.

No, I don't think it will be longer. If you want to get longer, get a good fitting and choose a shaft based on the results of the session.

As they say.... Suhhhweeeet! :cool:

In this particular case, they take advantage of the shaft name and use that to muddle the clarity of whether the club is a tour club or not. I see that all the time with TM and they way that the sellers use the OEM shaft name.