RIduffer

Lets get these out of the basement… $450+

Lets move these suckers... $500+

I figured that, and was assuming that the CAD and Molds cost would have been included in the 500k. Not sure about the finishing cost though… Would the stamping, grinding and plating be included? Again, I understand these are theoretical numbers...

No takers? How about a price drop 10 $150...

So is it a minimum run size or a $ figure? 500k, would that include the finish work too; the stamping, grinding and plating…?

Your wife is going too, right... Otherwise good luck with a youngin roaming the halls...

Okay... So for arguments sake... TS already has 90% of the work done on the CAD, it needs some adjustment and new molds... Would that lower the barrier... Something TS might do or is it always starting from scratch?

I'd snap up a few... So only 997 to go...

The point of the question is to maintain the quality of JDM, not just knock off a product...

As much as I like seeing your avatar that was bad news... Thanks for the info anyway....

Have a Attas Tour 4 iron shaft that I tried in a hybrid club and would like to recycle it into a wedge if possible... Other than graphics getting potentially covered, is there actually a performance difference between a butt cut 4i shaft and a PW shaft? Any ideas....

I'm guessing wedges...

A couple of threads have popped up recently, like "what would you like to see from Epon", that got me thinking... What is the smallest run of a particular club head some of the premium JDM forgers would need to manufacture in order for a set to cost under $2500 US retail…. Alternately what would it take for one of the JDM brands to include a custom design into their production run with one of the forging houses? For example, take Stew's comment about the TS 905 MB blade. How large of an order would it take to get TS to build it again, a little softer and a little thicker...

Best thing for vibration reduction is better ball striking…

If the 58 is already at 60, lets leave that one alone and bend the 52 to 55, then I'll pick up a 50 from the proshop… While you're bending might as well try a 2* upright lie angle, please... Thanks...

What is the 58* at now? Am a 62* lie angle on the 5 iron, not sure what that translates to in wedges... Too many choices... 50, 54, 58 51, 55, 59 50, 55, 60

Thanks for the info from both of you. I'll probably take you up on the offer to bend them also Carlo, just need to figure out how/which... Am hoping that plugging the space in my gapping is the right direction but having not hit the Yams am uncertain on which way to go... My thinking is to add loft to the 52* as well as bounce and turn it into a SW thus paving the way add a true gap in the 50* spot. More of a true iron type of grind instead of a more traditional wedge head at that loft. The 50* is gonna be used more for full and 3/4 shots than around the green... Right direction or other thoughts? Assuming a good direction, what to get for the 50*, Yururi, Golds, etc...

I am in the process of trading for some Yamaha wedges in 52* and 58*. How bad would it be to bend the 52* to 50* or 54*? If not an issue which would be better to add bounce by by increasing the loft or take away the bounce by lowering the loft? Whichever way, I can add a 3rd wedge to the bag for whichever is remaining... Thanks

I have this head that I traded for, Kasco e340, and need to swap out the existing shaft. Have a Crazy Boron in SX that I am going to save for a different head I traded for as I am told it is a low launcher, even at 11*. Based on the advice of the resident, has hit everything guru, Quadra and Kasco go together like US PGA pros and choking… But which flex, weight, model???? Techno, Max WBQ, FEX Proto... Swing speed is ~108 MPH some faster, topping in at ~115 some slower at ~104. Depends on time, day when in the round, etc... Don't think I am an overly aggressive swinger, but have long arms and can generate decent speed. Have used the P9003 in couple of heads with decent success, just cut one down to put into a Kamui 3wd. Have another in a Miura 390 head, that resides in So Cal so it doesn't get a lot of play, and get along with it quite nicely. However, need to stay on top of it or it fades/leaks right on me. Thanks, RIDuffer

I have one last OS Tour Wrap in dark brown that might go on in the future. Even better it is a round grip instead of a D style. Switched the stock grip to an Elite grips putter grip and like it quite a bit. All this talk about a dark shaft with a leather grip has my curiosity piqued. Ay thoughts on using a dark chrome TT iron/wedge shaft in the Zen?

Okay, what are the longer term results with this driver? Gauging by the lack of them in BST must be good, but inquiring minds want to know...

PM sent...

Thanks... Yeah got this before the roids and conversion to X...

Seeing as they were purchased in '08 I highly doubt they conform to 2010 groove rules...