TourSpecGolfer

Introducing the MODART T55 PROTO! This wedge features the same shape as the original T55 (found here) yet the sole is wider and the milling effect altered for a new look. Modart also applied a black oxide finish so the player can feel the steel differently than the original and plated model. If you look closely what looks brushed is actually milled then slightly polished by hand. Beautiful computer controlled milling extends flowing down the neck towards the face while both the grooves and entire face are milled as well. The result is what I consider one of the finest wedges ever made. There are very few fully milled heads on the market and in the case of wedges the only options are Modart Wedges & PXG’s Milled $650 wedge. In my opinion these are superior being that they are made of Japanese steel, made in Japan and the design is understated and clean. Modart is becoming more and more popular recently with it’s MA01D+R driver doing well on the long drive tour and in customer feedback from TourSpecGolf. The fairway and utility woods are also some of the best for whom they are designed for. While still very expensive especially for their fully milled products Modart is producing some of the very highest quality golf clubs in Japan. When comparing Modarts irons, wedges, putters and woods the brand surprisingly competes and beats other top boutique brands like an Epon and Miura. Consider them a sleeper. The new T55 Proto is a low bounce wedge with the 52 coming in at 6 degrees while the 58 comes in at 8. This makes it better for sweepers or players who are around firmer conditions. The feel at impact is sublime and hands down some of the best I have ever felt and I only hit the very finest. Its S25C J.I.S grade steel and in finish feels so pure when struck well. It’s right there with SS400 and FE99.9 it is that buttery yet still solid. Compared to the T55 with the standard chrome mirror it feels totally different this is softer and more dense at impact. This is a good players wedge theres no doubt about it. It is compact with no offset and a low bounce and the leading edge is nicely rounded. This wedge spins like crazy and no doubt the face milling pattern supports that while minimizing spin loss when wet, simply put CNC grooves are the best. The shaft you choose can have a big outcome on how well you hit your wedges. Today the only reason for most amatuer players not to go carbon in their irons and wedges even putter is the expense. Carbon cost more but can be every bit as straight, low, biased or anything you need it to be. There is carbon that can go lower and spin less than X100’s. I no longer call it graphite because of the stigma that graphite is for seniors or ladies. This Fujikura MCI Black is a top tier wedge shaft and since playing these I noticed much improved feel and touch around the greens. Fujikura makes two types one called MILD and the other SOLID and with these the bend profile and way it kicks supports either a sweeper or a digger. Finally the grip, it’s the all new IOMIC iXX in yellow to match the yellow paint fill on the head. feels firm and not sticky at all I highly suggest it. The new Modart T55 PROTO is very limited and will sell out quickly at TourSpecGolf. We have reserved as much as possible as well as produced 3 sets of 52/58 built exactly as seen in these photos. I am keeping one of them so that leaves two available for the public. contact [email protected] if interested.

New Iron & New Wedge from Yamaha. These are the Tour Models.

There are about 10 guys here in the forum who have hit both now. Both the CB and MCB are in stock. We only have 5-PW left. CB - players CB MCB - semi players CB. The MCB is only 0.5mm thicker in topline, the sole is thicker but its not game improvement or even medium sized. The MCB is in the ONOFF Kuro and Titleist VG3 Forged range of size. If people do not respond here I can give you some names to PM for their feedback.

I would suggest Razzle Dazzle or RomaRo Wedges for more bounce. They are both forgiving.

Yup great shaft. customer feedback has been that they play too stiff. Once I started suggesting going a flex down people were pretty happy.

I am trying to stay away from Oban and Matrix for a few reasons. 1. Not sure where, how, who makes them and what they are made and the tech used. 2. The way both brands list their tech descriptions is as if they don't want people to know what it is. Compo-T Fire Express UT 70/85/100 I forgot to add. I have not tried these ever but like Compo-T's work and have sold many with no negative reviews. I want TSGers to understand that some shafts cost $10 to make while others $300 at the factory level. What they are made of and how they are made are totally different yet the result can be very similar for the average player. For the scratch or pro player they see big differences. I know what shafts are cheaply made and I still see glowing reviews on TSG and especially other websites. Any shaft can be great if you know what works for you and take time to consider what you need.

Time for a post to help others decide on what UT shaft they should consider. I don't want this to be a post where people just shout out shafts they like, we should look at the top options that are made in Japan and post both any positives and negatives about the shaft based on personal use. Here is a list of my suggestions based on my opinion, customer feedback and quality. Fujikura MCH - reliable yet numb, tight dispersion and lower trajectory. I play one in my A-Grind DST 21* the 80 Stiff. Fantastic results. mid trajectory and does not get squirly unless the swing is really bad. Crazy STP UT - Awesome feel when the flex and weight are correct for the player, very stable and straight. I wish their were heavier iron shafts that felt like this. They need to make heavier weights for softer flexes. we can have custom factory tipping to help soften heavier weights. Diamana Thump 90 & 100 hybrids - Very good shaft, feels better than MCH to me. result is not as tight or consistent but it has a good medium high trajectory. Mamiya ATTAS ( not made in Japan ) - The HY has many weights to choose from. I have tried this shaft in driving irons and hybrid woods. They are very good with nice feel, higher trajectory depending on weight and flex you choose for your tempo. Basileus UT - good weights to choose from, really nice feel, not the tightest dispersion, launches higher but ideal for a soft landing with most woods. Go up to a heavier weight if you need more roll or have a more aggressive tempo. WACCINE compo GR-560 UT - This is one of my favorite shafts in a UT because oddly I could hit a repeatable draw where I aimed the easiest with this. That is because it matches my swings attributes and flaws but it feels lighter, softer yet has stability. I would suggest for someone who hits a slice as a bad shot or has a smoother tempo. for more aggressive tempos consider going up in weight and flex. The 75 Stiff model is perfect for someone with a 90-95mph swing speed. I used to play steel for accuracy and the lower flight but feel was not good nor was distance. heavy carbon is the ticket. I currently own and have preference to: Fujikura MCH w/ A-Grind DST, Crazy STP w/ JBeam TF-UT, and Waccine Compo w/ Baldo 568 UT. So what is your thoughts or favorite UT shaft?

I would order custom. Yoro T7 or MP5L or W Handmade Suda Wedges Also Miura craftsman world will do higher bounce for us

Im down to play this month.

+1 and unfortunately this is what sells now days. I was talking with some random gear enthusiasts at a golf shop younger gentlemen and all wanted red taylormade putters.

This I agree.

Get the PRGR Egg UT instead. Last years model makes a great driving iron.

Pear shape is a thing of the past. Honma, Bridgestone, A-Grind have pear shaped clubs but none I consider really good. So focus on the low spin and hands down lowest spin is Jbeam ZY-11 or 435 Black Out IMO.

SP700 is the face material. This club is also limited edition for shop sales I am told. TSG will be able to get some. The premise around this thing is feel. It feels and sounds much better. There is a natural draw bias to the head and that can be tuned down with a lighter weight in the heel

Lets try not to thread jack but to be laser. 1. You can order most Yoro mizzy drivers flat still 2. Epon is doing poorly. Endo is not interested in growing their golf business aggressively. PXG & The New Miura have taken a lot of their juice. Epon's soul has been missing for a decade now. Fu Shen & OTA the worlds two biggest factories in China are very competitive and aggressive. 3. TSG vs GolfCraft was the issue and it was purely about ego and feelings not sound business decisions. When I realized I was out I gave Epon a last bit of advice and It went a little something like this: " you guys are manufacturing and shipping it and have english speaking staff with time on their hands" cut out unnecessary regionals and sell directly to the shop. Judging by the way things are now they followed it... kinda. 4. I do not believe Epon has made an original mold for their products. A mold for the heavy press cost $1.2 million. Factories do not produce their own they let their customers pay for it then use / adjust / or duplicate after the product is phased out or the co goes belly up. Sometimes the mold will break so they repair it. I know factories that own many molds but none producing their own like big golf OEMs often do. It's simple math. how many sets you gotta sell to cover $1.2 million mold let alone the cost to produce thousands of sets of heads? Also if you really know shapes you can look at say the P3 or AF-Tour and tell these shapes look dated. Compare it to the shape of a SEVEN, Titleist, Taylormade or Srixon players CB. Two different eras in shape. So even if they are in the business of losing money and buying new molds (they are not) would they really spend that money on dated shapes? Ok lets stop there on this...lol

Lie angle is 59* open is 1.25* Reem or sleeve it and you can go another 3* either way.

http://fsp-shaft.com/

Kamui Works builds the heads to order with those specs. Jbeam hand picks or adjusts by reeming the hosel or using a special sleeve. They are totally different materials, heads etc..

JBeam can make super fade bias by changing the weights on the head and hand picking or adjusting the face and lie angle. There are Jbeam players with 3.5* open with 3* flat. (reem hosel) Getting a bias is no problem at all.

I talked to Sakata-san owner and designer of JBeam. This is what I got out of him: One of the reasons the lie's are more upright in Japan is because asian players tend to have shorter arms Also the flatter the lie the more it promotes the right side. Jbeam heads are not designed for shorter length shafts. The flat lie angles do not perform well with longer shafts Jbeams are usually shafted above 45" often even 46 & 47" 60* is the norm for Japanese drivers. Dispite the head promoting a draw, better for shorter arm lengths and longer lengths Jbeam has many tour and long drive professionals using their product. JBeam considers the upright lie promotes a draw and designs the head so that it can be neutral or even create a fade bias. So there are multiple ways he can achieve his goal as a designer. hope that helps. true or not this is his opinion.

The Honma TW-PT Blade Putter – Made of SUS303 in the body with dual 14 gram tungsten weights in the sole to increase the putters MOI as much as possible. By the advice of the Japan tour professional Komei Oda Honma decided to listen and drill holes in the hosel to lighten up the toe side and lighten the heel. This helps lower the center of gravity promoting a more stable stroke. This plumbers neck putters weights are not adjustable.

Will do. awaiting more info. You know you can reem your hosel to give you both flatter and more open. There are also club making parts that can do similar.

Spoke with the owner/designer of JBeam. The JBEAM BULLET driver is used by several Dragon Driving golfers right now. More than 20 wins so far with the Bullet prototype on the Long Drive Tour of Japan. The head has a natural draw bias and regarding the swollen toe, the bullets head has a longer center of gravity distance which prevents the duck hook I will ask about lie angle.

Zero that I know of. If there was a difference it would be likely the green labels are watered down but I have not heard anything of the sort.

The company called PGE who owns and sells a bunch of brands like Musahi, Vega, United and others basically asked Shimada to sell them shafts with a different finish and sticker. Anyone can do this with a minimum order through Shimada. TSG sells both but I always suggest the JDM version because they have the all models even then new 8001 and it's more transparent about what they are, the specs, bend profile etc..