acrazygolfer

The fastest and cheapest is to add lead tape to either the sole or to the cavity (anser style) ... or you can have the putter ported and thereafter adding steel/lead/etc. ingots.

It sounds like I'd need to tip my 6064 at least 1/2" to get it to play properly.

V. Young lost the Heisman today based on his performance against A&M!

Wow! 17.5 ... that's excellent. How many points did you give to the 6064?

Hopefully this year I'm going to venture into import drivers.

Chris did a post on the Red a few days ago.

Chris did a pretty post on the Red shafted to the Srixon W-505 a few days ago.

Plus+ never fails to amaze me!

I recently tried the 405 w/AD M65(s). This head/shaft combo is not for me. However, the head does feel great on contact.

I tried the 405 with AD M65(s) and it was not the right head/shaft combo for me. However, the head does feel great on contact.

Sorry Robbie-man. It must be on the first page!

Can it be confirmed that the technology of the US retail SQ is about a year or 2 years behind the stuff Nike introduced to the Asian market? For example, the sole design of the SQ is similar to the design of the crown of the Ignite+ DFI, a driver that is now about one year old or more. The same goes to the face insert.

Robbie, It would be even nicer if you were to indulge us with your swing characteristics: SS, smooth, agressive, draw, fade, etc. With these additional information it would help us all to understand why a particular shaft works while others didn't. Ben

:cool: Guys a very honest review. As I said on another thread, for 1k the ozik would want to be hitting them over the back fence at the range dead straight! Robbie, what kick point do you have in your Axiv? I have leaning against the wall is a 6064M and looking to shaft it in the Nike Ignite+ so am very interested in Robbie experience with the Axiv, of course with the understanding that his swing may not be the same.

Thats great to hear deman! I love Axiv shafts also. found extra carry and overall distance added to my drives. Chris, Any experience with the 6064M with Nike Ignite+ DFI 9.5* Thanks.

Hi Joe, Driver head gets to you ok? I'll call you next week re: blue printing an 8 iron (TS202) with Nippon 1150 for me to test before reshafting the entire set of MR23 US Spec. Ben.

O/T Chris, Shaft arrived to day. Ben.

Joe, I want to see how you did it but can't find that thread in the search engine. Ben

Lets see ... to "shim" is to use a thin tapered piece of material to fill gaps, to make somthing level, or to adjust somthing to fit properly. Notwitstanding the lack of a hosel, the head of a war bird does have a "port" for the purpose of holding the shaft to the club head. Assuming the war bird is a square face head, to have a square set up would required that the shaft to be perfectly parallel to the "port." Therefore, to open the club face, the shaft must be installed at an angle with the shaft tilting away from the target. In order to achieve this result, the shim/wedge must be installed at the 9 o'clock position. Just my guess! Why not hold the club with a weak grip or rotate the club open?

I spoke to Joe today and did a little reading afterward regarding graphite shafts. Here is a quick refresher on the designs of graphite shafts: The 4 design characteristics of graphite shaft are (1) torque; (2) weight; (3) flex; and (4) kick point. Torque - torque is the measure of lateral twisting the shaft experiences under playing condition. The less the shaft and head twist at impact, the tighter the dispersion and thus more accuracy. Torque ranges from 1.8 to 7.2. Weight - the measure of the shaft in gram. Lighter shaft helps to increase swing speed. However, lighter shafts tend to have higher torque. Flex - flex is the measure of how much the shaft will bend under given condition. The more flexible the shaft, the easier it is to swing. Slow swing speed players should play lighter flex shaft to assist in generating club head speed ... the opposite for higher swing speed players. Flex designations by the manufacturers are not the same as but generally are pretty close. Kick Point - kick point is the location/point on the shaft where the majority of the shaft flex occured. Kick point is designated as low, mid and high. Low kick point shaft will kick or release closer to the club head during the down swing making it easier for the player to release the shaft resulting in higher trajectory. The opposite for higher kick point since the shaft kicks closer to the grip during the down swing resulitn in a low and more boring trajectory. I'd hope this refresher helps all of us in finding that shaft HOLY GRAIL!

.335 per Maruman Int'l Division

At 2.5* close, I'd be left of left. :rolleyes:

Steel or graphite in the hybrid? And why?

You are not Da Man but is now Big Kahuna!

:confused: :mad: Chris this may be a really silly question, however why do the high end manufacturers persist with closed faces, when the high end consumer, in most cases, want them dead square? Many high end consumers are rich old dudes with $$$ to be spent! LOL. I was at the clubfitter when this old business guy walked in with a brand new $1K+ Homma driver and wanted it re-shaft to a senior flex! He told me that he's unhappy with 200 yards drive with a fade .... on a good day ...