Lowpro

i have done half to full inch off. up tp 2'' for 5wds.. hope this helps..

it can be a can of worms to open and talk about.. i have seen where the flatline theory has helped senior and women players.. mainly those with slower swing speeds.. myself never really liked the straight line theory...

good question. i have been playing the blue's , and have a set with PX shafts in them.. very very close comparison i think. have played the black golds- not close to the two i mentioned.. hopefully someone will chime in.

you should be fine.. i am sure there club builders are versed in the practice.. hit it deep..

just got two of the fairway woods. i have not seen the driver .. but will make and hit the fwy's late sunday. will post up as to how they perform.. but as usual -- classic style. very sleek.

check with the sponsors.. see if they can help out with the work.. cheaper than buying a new set.... if you really like the irons and wish to continue playing them- get it done. thanks

2nd the WBoard 83 x' or the matrix ozik f7m ltd in a x flex also.. both are the best to lower the rpm's, spin and control

lighter grips.. golf pride multi compound cords are a good choice.. or take them apart and add a tip weight. might just be the best way to go..

well- it is a personal feel issue i think. i am a rifle guy. have the same wedges and put spinner rifle shafts in them.. also some with PX shafts in them. the black golds are very very close to the rifles.. my two pennies'

looks like verey low torgue ratio on most shafts and heavy weights also. very interesting. and yes the logo doe shave the epic look-- but i bet they hit better than the epic'

post up after yu have hit the club. interested to see what you say than.

good friend had the same deal. after rehab and the doc's ok- he started slow.. putting-chipping mainly for a few weeks- mnth.. did not play a full round for a good 8mnths.. range play/practice working up the irons and into woods. 9 holes here and there. once the mind understood there was nomore hurt from swinging.. all back to normal.. - like all said- do not rush it back. work that short game.. good luck with rehab.

stay in the 50gram range for weight, torgue 3-5* range, mid-high luanch. which brand -- many to look at. flex wise- ever try a A flex. something softer than the regular.. the last thning you said- leave them out to right towards the end of the round when i get tired.. softer flex will allow for you to still get threw the ball. my thoughts..

it can yes.. what shaft- length-clubhead- all play into it.. what are you looking at..

always a threat of something like that happening. he did right by letting you know up front - something could go wrong. have the club as is - checked for face angle. if it is indeed sqaure to open -- you know you need to work out that kink in the swing. but start by having the face checked now - before you do anything. if he has the proepr tools- and we are talking 1* degree- not much to worry about.

oouch** nice set my man.. play well..

yes - it is a wide open question but post what you like. --- sonartec -- wilson --- miura --- scratch -- what i have laying around here.. have spinners and project x shafts in them. what works for me..

many factors go into an ideal launch # for oneself. do not get too caught up in the numbers game.. see what works and use the launch data to tweak it..

slick- post up when you have or anyone hit them. metal makeup etc..

hit both in similiar heads. f7m2 vs whiteboard 73 is a good fight. feel > f7m2 wins lowest launch> WB 73 wins control - point and shot- > draw - both give you that control hope this helps

not sure the notch is anyting besides where the shaft was held during painting etc.. or cut off to make length. but i just hand rolled a white board 73 stiff in a spine locater - and the logo - she was facing down. or 6 o'clcok spot during installation. a few came in like that. but MRC can lead you in the right direction. solid company..

chris not sure what your using now to find spine/ flo of a shaft.. but there are low tech NON lease products to use and get same results my friend. tested a few shafts i have done and sst pured-- sent a few to ust and matrix and - to let them use their $3000 machines and pretty much get it right on the button. it is a good thing to do and even with the high end shafts.. just as a check measure- if you understand.. but with how well made the golf sdhafts are being done these days - it could be passed over. steel now on the other hand -- always check .. hit it well.

you could possible drop down a loft also to help- with a flatter launch. ozik f7m2 is a good one and what it is ment to do. but for 90swing speed look at the code 6 or even xcon 5 in a stiff flex. they are as high launch as they state. all have low spin.. but you may benefit more from a lighter wieght shaft. just my thoughts.

so do not buy into the hype and hit what works.. and buy / spend how much you want etc.. ex: you can get to the course in a toyota camery or a lexus. how do you want to get there and your personal beliefs and value you put on things- correct.. hey- great points and nice read.. the tinkering the tour equipment gets is or has done to it per reguest if just a fine tuning i see. what we can do to the mass made equipment is easy to do.. reshaft, grind work done, lie - lofts changed etc.. to make it more personal to my game. i guess your main topic is value. and why we spend how much we do on things.. hype- advertising - who what pro's play it etc.. all lead the build up. what the pro's of years ago played is really flat out neat - and how they went on feel alone. with all the techno we have now it still leads back to that. enjoy. ken

money shot* look out.. does not look too different from the prevous model.. and if so-- the top down shot should yield a sqaure small offset - long heel to toe head. hot hitting hybrid..