Duffer19

I am certainly no swing mechanic expert but I am having pretty much the same issue off and on. I believe my cause of pull/draw or pull/hook could be a flatter swing with my longer clubs and not having finish high. By finishing high would promote a slightly more upright swing or swing plane. I have been experimenting with a 20* hybrid at 42" which is almost 1.5 to 2" longer than 'standard.' While the lie angle of 59* is fine for the length, the extra length does promote a more sweeping motion and flatter plane. With an in to out swing path, a flatter plane swing could easily ends up a pull hook. A weaker grip is no help in my situation.

Hi T: I had a chance to hit the Diamana Kai'li 63 R on a Epon 460 last week on course. The launch is slightly higher than the White but I would not consider it a high launch shaft (I am not a high ball hitter.) It does has a nice kick to it but then it felt it needs to 'open' up a bit with more playing time as it was fairly new. I would definitely consider this vs. the new GD EV5/6.

Why would Mizuno needs to explain or change anything? The MP line carried by TSG is targeted domestically (Japan) for good players. The MP Craft T1 driver has a lie angle of 58* so 59 and 59.5 is a logical progression whether you like it or no. The MP line of 3 iron is 59.5 and 0.5* increment thereafter. The CLK U2 is 59 (to replace the 2 iron), U3 is 20* loft at 59.5* and U4-23* at 60* lie. If the Mizuno MP design/spec does not work, the consumers would vote with their feet. I honestly think you would be hard pressed to find a JDM driver with a 55* lie angle and 56* or 56.5* on any JDM fairway woods.

Classic lofts? The Beres 7 series is 1.5* stronger than the already strong loft Epon 701. As a matter of fact, it is the strong loft and the whip like soft tip action of this particular Armrq shaft that makes the 7 series stand out. I do not have the experience with the 702 and 3 but the 701 has a certain clickiness to the feel due to the undercut. The 701 I've played was just a 2 stars and a very forgiving club and very long.

The guy is asking for 'official' distributor/retailer in Singapore and not 'unofficial' ones. Since many Singaporeans like to vacation in Bangkok, you could just hop over and visit with 'Doc' Nimi of Golfcraft and get some clubs to demo for a few rounds there before deciding the model. I know for a fact that the official 'resellers' in Hong Kong do carry demos. I have not seen any fake Epon yet as it is still a niche brand.

Anyone interested in quite a few (at least 10) Kenneth Smith Persimmon woods of various lofts? Just clean out my parents attic and threw away about 7 bags of old clubs but kept the KS and Honma 'wood' woods for sentimental reason. If you have money to burnor or your name is Gates, you should go invest in a golf start up company or something like KS. Golf is just a game and you can use the KS but t does not mean you handicap would go down significantly.

For those of us in Asia, it is already Christmas day and those in North America is late Christmas' Eve and Santa is about to climb down the chimney. May all of you have a merry Christmas and a safe New Year. I am thankful I could be in Asia this year and miss all the snow storm in the East coast.

As far a I understand the OnOff + (2009 model) does not have undercut and would be closer to the 301 but with Tungsten weight in the longer irons. I suspect that it would actually closer to the Yamaha V forged in feel.

I dont have the Miura cb301 but do play the cb201 and I can tell you that the Miura is easier for me than the Epon 301. My Miura is on nspro 850 while my Epon is on Shimada AC10 both in R flex. It is not that I cannot play the Epon 301, I am just not consistent enough with it to score well. Perhaps it is just me and not the club since I am now playing off 15 and might not be good enough to play the Epon 301. I have absolutely no problem with my other set of Epon 501/nspro 850 combo. IMO, the Epon 501 is more forgiving than 301 with the undercut in the long to mid irons. I do not find the 501 to be clicky with its undercut.

Offened no but confused by your original post yes. Everyone cares about SW and all JDM gears are very tight with their tolerance. Judging from the date you started golf, we are about the same age (started golf in 1965 as a freshman in college). I play mostly JDM most of my golfing life hence know what works for me. I also have conponent sets built but built to my spec of D0. If you look at the JDM iron sets here, you would notice that steel shafted are mostly D0 in R and D1 in S. Graphite shafted would be C9 to D0 in R and D0 to D1 in S. Epon would be the exception that you could specific SW when you order your set here. IMO, SW specification is tigher now than when we pick up the game in the 60's. Please remember all JDM clubs are targeted towards the domestic Japanese market and spec accordingly. Most people can play a range of SW. I can play from a C9 to D2 but anything over D4 on a full swing would be too heavy and tiring after the game. You seem to be referring to North American standard which is not particularly relevant to some of the modern JDM available here. At the same time, I am not sure whether swing weight has anything to do with the flex of the shaft. The lady golfer that I play with ocassionally had a TM 5 wood built but the SW came back E5 which is way too heavy for most people, let alone a lady golfer although she is low handicap. The shaft is a Japanese R flex. I would bet you that 99 out of 100 members here would know their preferred SW and buy accordingly but no one buy a full set (13 clubs) of the same brand here anyway.

I dont understand the question in this forum? Doesnt everyone consider SW when they buy or build their clubs, especially members of this forum? All SW are listed in official websites, especially JDM and all the ho's here certainly know their preferred SW.

I am a senior golfer as well but recently changed to a 16:5* 4w and 3 hybrids: I have found that I might only use a 3 wood once per game: I cannot play a 7 wood well either hence 3 hybrids for difference length. One as a 5 wood replacement (20*) and the other 2 for attacking the green. I drop the 4 iron now too.

Driving iron or the PRGR Zoom 302CX is not the way to go for a high handicapper. That's why PRGR has the 502, Premimum Red and Egg line.

I do have some experience with the Beres 7 series and Maruman shuttle and if you are playing your driver and 3 wood well enough in those flex, you should stay close to those specs. I would recommend the XXIO, ViQ FW as they are really easy to hit well and high. Fourteen would be slightly more demanding although 5w off the deck shouldnt be an issue. Epon fw would not be the one for you as it is more demanding than those mentioned above. One thing to watch for is you dont want a open face FW at this stage of your handicap.

One should have at least one hybrid in the bag (I use 2-3) but as long as it is not a US spec Titleist for a high handicapper.

Pardon me for being frank but your pro is right in saying that the Titleist is the only club that stands out in your bag (in a sense that it is totally not compatible.) Your Beres 711 R and Shuttle is totally like wet noodles soft yet you play them well enough yet you are playing a US spec 19* thru bore NV that would be too stiff for a high handicapper to handle. I am playing with a lot of seniors and they do not live well with hybrids either but rather take a 7 or 9 woods. Looking at your bag, you are better off with a XXIO, Beres or some of the JDM hybrid available here but dont go lower than 20 or 22* degree. If you want to go a 5 wood distance, get a 5 wood.

I see that you are using the af101 now and you would be totally disappointed switching to the EMB.

I just cannot play the two proto I got from you but 'Art' is doing magic with them.

You are right T. I can still find some Zodia wedges in the sale bin in Hong Kong. The Chiba line was a bid of sale dud I think. They should bring back the raw ones from years ago when I first saw them in Japan.

Would there be any review of the non-tour version of V Forged (with tour ad hopefully) for 'the rest of us'?

Hi T: What is the story on this new shaft from Graphite Design? Where does it fit in the line up?

That's right, all $15 of it.

November 5th ah? I have plenty of time until 2009.

Just another point for consideration is the color or light color for that matter. I just cannot keep the light color ones clean and have to wash them every other game (my own hang-up.) I am using the 50 which would comes in Black which does not show the dirt so easily.