Duffer19

As a mid handicap player (senior division please) and definitely not an expert in swing and/or shaft dynamics, I can attest somewhat to what Richmond Golfer was referring to swing and getting better result with a slightly stiffer shaft. This is contrary to most conventional wisdom in golf but it seems to work for me. I had a driver built in Japan last year with a custom shaft in SR flex which I demo'ed with a LM. Normally a JDM SR flex would be relatively soft especially in the mid high 50 g range but this particular one turns out to be 252 cpm at 45.5". Of course, I did not find out the cpm until the club was built and it was really too late then. Normally my comfort range is 230 to 240 cpm at the comparable length. Somehow this combo works magic and I have been to places with this driver that I have not been before. Perhaps its the shaft or perhaps its the 9* loft but the ball would roll for 20 to 30 yards upon landing. One drawback with this (slightly) stiffer a shaft is one cannot get lazy with the swing and must really work on timing. An 'off swing' would result in a shorter than normal drive. Perhaps this is the wrong approach to club fitting but as a senior player, I am just happy to be able to drive it at reasonable distance and have a chance to hit the green in regulation with clubs other than a driver off the fairway.

All we need now is a new black Epon 460cc driver and fairway woods.

There is something about a black driver (this, Srixon proto and the Geotech) that turns me on.

This must be a record, 13 posts.

Picked up a copy of July Golf Classic in Japan last week and noticed a black Srixon drivers in some of the pros' bags. The design is something I have not seen before and it is not just some old model painted black. Perhaps T could tell us a bit more on this one.

I like the driver head but not the Mizuno stock shaft. So far had only one game with the Machline proto in R flex and the result is definitely better but still need time to adjust to timing of shaft/square head combo. For those interested in the Machline or at least the proto, IMO, it is firmer than most JDM shafts with comparable weight and flex designation.

T: I've found my A25 3w with stock SR to be too high in launch and actually shorter than my V Steel 5 wood to replace a both a 15 degree 3 and a 18 degree 5 wood. I have since reshafted it with a white board (pulled from a 14* CV Pro) to bring down the height and hopefully with more roll. My spare A25 driver is now shafted with Machline 7061 Proto.

Most J spec grip would be smaller than standard North American and if you dont use glove, you should use non-cord J spec which you can stretch out 1/4 inch further to make it even smaller/thinner. I would recommend Nowon 50 series over Iomic if you dont use glove.

"Downgraded' ?

That '10 years' could be 20 years ago and he did say 'then.'

One good thing about forum members here is that they (I myself included) own and play multiple sets of clubs. I have the Miura CB201 and the Epon 501 and 301. You can and should take advantage of user experiences here, particularly Epon owners with varies shafts combo. I think Miura you can buy heads only but all Epon irons are all built in Japan by Epon. I play the Epon 501 and Miura cb201 with nspro 850 and the 301 with the Shimada AC10.

I can come in for another 20 pcs.

The Epon and V Steel (I play the old version) are close and I like both but Honma and EGG? It just seems odd that if you are considering the Honma (Beres?) 8 and 9 series and at the same time, you would also considering the EGG.

Just reading through the 2007 Golf Style Magazine on WITB of top amateurs in Japan, X drive, Srixon, Fourteen, RC, V Steel, R7 with just a few Mizuno and PRGR were among the popular brands. The X Drive FW seems to be the most used among good players. I personally play Epon, Fourteen and J spec V-Steel FWs, all with upgrade shafts. Head feel wise, I would rank V-Steel to be the best.

While I havent demo the Legacy either, I would take the Legacy over XR any day.

While I have not hit either but it is my impression that the TM XR is basically aim for the high handicapper in Japan and the Tour Burner TP is on the other side of the spectrum.

I only had the driver many years ago but did not like it and stop buying Kasco since then.

I personally find the Super Hyten feels more 'harsh' as compared to the present metal woods.

Thanks

What happen to Geotech product line on the proshop? The only thing left is the wrench key.

I am actually playing T's old 106 since late last year and it is not a particularly difficult club to hit. My only complaint is that for a 21*, the ball flight is on the low side. I would prefer to be able to hit a high draw with a hybrid. Perhaps it is my swing (fault) rather than the club. I have not hit the Halo so I cannot compare. I am looking to the new PRGR Zoom X to replace my Fourteen.

The GD W series, particularly the 50 and 60, is just as good a fw shaft as the QT and I doubt you would see a noticible difference. I do see a big difference between a 60 g vs 70 g shaft in FW. I have play the W, QT, PT but Machline iFW65 is still one of my favorites at half the cost.

One thing for sure, having a white board on a 3 wood is a challenge. I have a white R on a CV Pro and it is a literally hit and miss proposition. It just does not launch high enough unlike the Machline.

My Machline fw65 R on my TM V-Steel 3 and 5 wood is both D1 at 42.75" and 42.25" and they perform great. From my experience, Machline shaft, both driver and fw, tend to play stiffer than other J spec shafts of comarable flex designation. You really have to find out which 'Kg' flex would be best for you. My 5350 proto R flex is 242cpm on a Fourteen JC606 head at 45.5" and my Big Event Hyper Tour SR (custom by NGS for a golf shop in Tokyo) is 253 cpm on a Epon 460 at 45.5".

Is this similar to Balance Certified? An authorized dealer would put different weights (2g, 5g, 8, and 10 g I think) on the butt end of your own putter to test out and once you decided on the right weight and feel, an weighted insert would be drilled and inserted on grip end of your favorite putter. It does feel more balanced. The cost is appoximately 50 to 70 dollars.