Duffer19

Sure why not when I win my next Lotto.

I was lucky enough to try this driver (from a fellow golfer) on course today and it is one of the best feeling driver I have hit for a long time and probably the most expensive ever. The owner did not know the exact cost as it is a present but was told (by others) that it is in the region of $1200 to $1,300. The stock Fuji (Rombax) shaft was very responsive and I was surprised that the R was not like wet noodle as in most high end JDM stock. The driver is very long and extremely easy to hit. This is definitely not one of those 'For Senior Executive Only' clubs. Yes the sole is gold tint (tastefully) and the ferrule is like cut diamonds

Apple and Oranges -- the spec and price seems to suggest closer to White Board then the other two.

Found this pic in a Japanese site and the new shaft comes in 3 weight class, as with other Diamana, 63. 73 and 83 and mid to high kick and msrp is 40,000 yen.

Miura must had some sort of lapse when he designed the MT 001. It must had a very clicky feel and sound with those 'inner cavity.' I was told that the 'easier' model would be the 101 and the 202 which is an improvement of 201. Passing Point 9001 and 1006 are not being marketed Internationally but available here. There are always irons that are more forgiving or longer but it would not be a Miura. I would take a Fourteen first before I get the ViQ.

OK guys, its kawaii and not AV.

My wife would be all over me for drooling over pics of young ladies, golfers or otherwise especially those younger than my daughter. She said looking at golf clubs all the time is bad enough.

EMS=Emergency Medical Service, I certainly need a alot of help. Sorry I have been watching a lot of 'HOUSE' lately.

I dont think the driver is targeting a 5 handicapper sir. It is more for us mid to high cappers

Thanks AJ. I would be in Bangkok early December and perhaps I go visit Golf Craft and see whether they have one for demo.

When would the new driver be coming out and any more spec available such as pics?

If it is JDM, I think you could invest in a new Srixon Z steel. In FW, besides the face angle or head profile, it would be the shaft that dictate the distance and/or whether it is the perfect flex for you to gain the distance.

Bela: Looking at your current set up, it is more mixed that ever. The Drev stiff, while you did not specify which model, must be in the mid 12 flex (NGS scale) which is actually quite suitable for a 100 mph swing. I am confused by the Beres 702 regular which is extremely soft and light. If you play the xxio mp400 in regular and play it well, then Gocchin's recommendation is correct for a 601. You could benefit it more if the Drev is a SR or the flex is more in the mid 11 range. If you are playing the ping in reg graphite, you could be looking at jdm sr to fit your swing speed. Note: Bela. if you are now playing the Beres 702, why are you looking at the tpye X. There is absolutely no advantage for you to switch. Beres are as strong loft as any irons on the market and the shaft is like a whip. Both irons have the clicky sound anyway.

You are comparing apple and orange with 30 g difference in weight. You woul be able to swing faster with the 501 but less control with the lighter shaft, especially if it is too flex. You have a mix bag in your signature which makes it difficult to recommend. I have never play the Machline iron shafts but i do have 3 driver shafts by NGS and they are as good if not better than any big name JDM shafts. The trick is to find the right flex for you swing speed regardless of material. I play a Nippon 850 in R but would probably play the 501 in S. If it is 701 it would be SR. I know it is not much help for you too choose but I play both and i like both graphite and steel if they are the right flex.

That is exactly my point. The more offset in the longer irons is to help or compensate for hitting those longer irons with shorter irons require less 'help.' Ed's question is more offset for shorter iron design.

Can you give a few JDM examples other than the R7?

I was in a Callaway store in a brand new mall in Hong Kong this weekend and saw two sets of x forged irons with Project X 5.0. IMO the X forged is one of the most attractive of any Callaway products (wood and irons) but I am totally ignorant of the project x spec. This shaft option is not even in the Japanese Callaway site. The store itself is basically a clothing store hence no help there. What is 5.0 and how does it compared to nspro 950. DG or Callaway's uniflex steel? Any comment would be appreciated.

Bat is right that the R7 spec is face progression and not offset. Ed is only referring to R7 forged and not X Blade CB. The spec for X Blade CB seems to suggest more offset (in group of three face progression) for longer irons than shorter ones.

Is there an error in your topic heading? You mean less offset for shorter irons or more offset for longer irons?

EMS Japan is one of the best and you also gain a day crossing the dateline.

Is this review by you on the same new GD shaft(s) as mentioned above by K2 2 and Gocchin? They are already in Cleveland?

Go see the Pro shop C.

Too damn old (61 in 3 weeks) to play blades and yes my buddies would be most surprised/happy when I could not get 'the ball' up.

C T is more knowledgeable but I do know my JDM since I have been playing golf for 30 years.