Duffer19

While I have not hit TM XR and ERC hot but believe that they do sit slightly closed while G Field is square to open. I do own a G field 4 wood with a Diamana Red board (also Epon 3 and 5, Fourteen and CV Pro) and IMO, G Field is ok (last amongst the above) and definitely as not great as sometime being touted here. It is more a players fw like the CV Pro-small head that requires more aggressive swing rather than easier swing. It helps if you can work your fw too.

Isn't that a $500 shaft or twice /3 times the cost of the head?

Why would one play a driving or ut irons (unless you are a low single) when you can play an easier wood like hybrid or fairway wood? These things are so unforgiving. The name of the game is to lower one score/handicap isn't it?

C, you can't miss them. The shaft is made from ski pole and the face is hi-cor cat gut instead of maranging steel.

Nothing would get rid of a fade due to swing fault but a tip stiff shaft could minimize it then it could be lower flight which is not you are looking for. The Diamana White (tip stiff and butt soft) might work but it is still chancy if you fighting a outside in swing. Is the G field FW square or open face? You can actually find FW with a 1 degree closed.

I believe they have the baby blade now and it is in satin and chrome. I have seen them in the satin and they are small (to me anyway.) It is supposed to be limited production.

That doesn't sound right with the XXIO T. I also have the U7 which is 40.5" long and the stock R is 57 g and I am guessing the SW is C9 which is 90% of JDM men clubs in R. Your Tour AD UT-55 would also be in the mid 50g range hence the total weight should be approximately the same as with stock. So where would the extra 20 some grams come from? Perhaps from the extra 0.5"?

If you are due paying member of this forum then there is no such thing as owning a set of irons or any clubs for a very long time. Seriouly you sound like you could be a beginner and there are many game improvement options such as the Epon 701, XXIO (cast) and Fourteen TC 550 (cast) that have a little more offsets. I am not saying that the 550 forged (steel shaft only i think) cannot be good for you but there are many more options for a beginner including those with graphite shafts.

I have a set of graphite fit Matsu and was told by my fitter that the irons/hosels were micro taper like the Pings. I trust this makes some sense to you or whether it makes any difference as to what you described.

Nobody plays a yellow ball in Canada in October. The whole course is full of yellow and red leaves.

I just saw this at Miura site-super expensive but super nice.

And Miura is your favourite brand?

I know but was surprised that you mentioned it. Dont see or hear much about them except in Japan.

Firstly I dont think there would be a consensus but I can tell you which ones work for me. I have tried quite a few JDM makes but Fourteen (21*) and Yoshimura (22*) works for me the best and most consistently. I dont see the need to change the stock shaft if the club works. If the hybrids deliver the goods, i.e. get the ball from point A to point B every time, why change anything?

I think this horse is dead.

We have not seen a Miuraism in this forum or proshop yet, have we?

Boy, you guys are not asking too much aren't you. By the time this proposed test is finished, the 2009 models should be ready.

Any iron might produce flyers from rough, right (regards of makes)? Is there a correlation between forgiveness and flyers?

Once you get into the mid 80 g shafts, most are mid kick anyway. If you are having some success with the W60 in the driver, perhaps you should try pt6 or pt7 or mid 60 to low 70 g in the FW. At the same time, no shaft would cure a swing fault and left to right ball flight would not the fault of the shaft. If you want distance vs direction, go with a softer and lighter shaft.

The MP 67 is a blade (imo) and no offset (not progressive anyway until the 9 and PW) but you ordered the AF301 which is billed as a players' CB with offset amount listed out at the spec. What was your expectation? What amount of offset is greater than normal? What is normal offset? The good thing about JDM sites is that the specs are very detail. I am a little confused by this apple and orange comparison.

I play both the Epon S and Miura cb201 with identical nspro 850 R and if I have to choose just one, I would pick the Miura over the Epon for feel (not necessary softness) regardless of spin weld or whatever the differences in construction. Again this is very subjective.

That's just the MSRP. Actual retail could be $99.95. I'll take one too.

This could be a cool gadget for the winter months. http://www.bs-sports.co.jp/press/2007/g090.../g0904_sep.html

If CV pro fw is any indication, this new RC TP would be difficult to handle except for the good or low handicap players.

From the Japanese site, the msrp ranges from a low $400 to high of $650. As to the tech behind it, perhaps Gocchin can translate or give us a brief description. I did see it in Tokyo last week but paid no attention since I have never heard of it nor notice the price. Should have asked whether they have a demo shaft.