Duffer19

Just out of curiosity, what makes you get the Passing Point vs say 1006, 202 or 301 with the PP being the first Miura with strong loft and more offset. I assume being a 10 hdcp, you might prefer a more traditional loft iron.

Since you are a 10 and basically tried them all, you dont really need any help. Then again, you can experiement different shafts such as the new Shimada 7001 or go graphite with the new super expensive GD Tour AD 105 or 115. Initial reviews from Japan of the new tour ad have been great according to Gocchin.

It seems that all the high MOI drivers have similar design: Nike, TM Burner, Hi Bore, Cobra and now Epon EMB. I understand the merit of the high MOI drivers but I have yet to get pass the look and feel of those heads in my hands.

My hat's off the Chris and Tario. You guys are either mind readers or just as fast as the Shinkansen in bring new toys to us. Just reading the introduction of the Miura 5003 and the 5000wa less than a week ago and you guys already have it on the proshop today. I was just about to ask T to translate Toshi's blog (with his permission of course) on the 5003 and the Science Eye.

Go cheap and try to find a new or used G Field Premium (for about $200) to try it out first.

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I thought you said the Baby would not be out until next year. Available now is the limited tournament blade.

I have yet to commit to the FW yet but feel wise, the Miura driver felt more solid then the Epon 460 due to his small size. it just gives a less tinsy sound and more of a soft whack. Face is mid deep since it is not a long theel to toe design. Looking forward for some spec or pic of the UT. The Miura driver looks better in real life than the picture but they should come up with a nice design HC.

Notwithstanding that the wood line is made in Taiwan for Miura (a fact he does not deny or hide), if the utilities are as good as the driver and fw, just tell me how I can get it.

Is it what a good driver is all about? long and straight. If you really want to feel good and soft , get a Maruman Majesty or S Yard.

So how is the XL treating you? Did you get the J-Spec one?

Thanks guys, found out from Master that the Project X is US spec set while the JDM uses nspro and DG. Beautifully made heads though.

The link does not seem to work for me.

Kent If you are a +18 you dont need anything but if you are a 18+, the ADR is a better choice for you than the TM. I decided on a TM 9* last month in Japan due to smaller head and square face. It was custom built while I wait with my choice of shaft. For 18+, the ADR with 10.5 or 11* which has a slightly closed face would be the route to go if you decided to go with Akira. ps: You are talking about the new ADR (Japan site) right,the one with a Red logo on the sole and won all sort of awards in Japan in 2006 or 07?

T, it is going to take you twice as long in getting your handicap or your game down with this pace (club wise.) OK, I can consider the MacTec NX but not the Burner or the Hi-Bore although I recommended it to you. As a matter of fact, just sold my old Mactec NV2 380cc last month.

I had their forged cavity iron heads in my hand the other day. It is mid size with satin finish that looks a bit like the Scratch. No logo except the words 'prototype Forged"

If low loft driver is your thing, try the Yoshimura LD430 from http://www.team-yoshimura.com/. I think it comes in 6, 7 degrees only. I am sure Chris can get you one. Perhaps Chris can recommend one of the long drive Works. ps: Geotech (Japan) has a pro spec head that is 2 degrees open face angle.

We, in this forum. tend to dismiss stock shafts too quickly (ncluding yours truly) which is totally unnecessary. The stock shafts with the JDM premium brands are extremely good and the club is being designed as a total package. Many times we actually ruin the the feel of the club by replacing the stock shaft.

I'll be getting it just for the looks alone.

Hi T: Does it mean that you would be getting the JC707 since it is the winner of the 40ms? My JC606 with the Machline 5350 proto R might be perfect for you. Good Job.

Besides my swing, my eye sight is failing too. I did demo'ed the Egg the week they came out in Japan in Sept-really solid club if you can get past the looks.

I cannot get my 5 iron to go 165 yard and the 20 hdcp is getting it to fly 185 and same as the pro? wow he is good. I think there is something wrong with my Epon S and should change to the Fourteen or the EGG.

Nice stuff but does not look much like a beginners' set up with the mp57. Any particular reason that you switch from a 6060L to a white? What shaft is on the 57?

http://epongolf.co.jp/products/TECHNITY_FW/ This is from Epon's own site notwithstanding the option here at TSG. http://golf.dunlop.co.jp/xxio/wood/xxi_wd_allnew_fair.html This is XXIO FW http://golf.dunlop.co.jp/srixon/wood/sri_wd_zsteel2.html Srixon Japan http://www.onoff-golf.com/products/fairway...irway-arms.html OnOff Japan and the list goes on. My point being JDM FW stock are 90% in the mid 50 g weight range. It might not be to your liking or fit your swing speed but this is JDM spec. They are being designed that way for good balance and flex and not necessary with the Western market in mind.

Normally I would agree with you both but if one is to look at the JDM stock shafts for FW, you would notice most are in the mid 50 range with the heavier shafts as custom option. The flex you play your driver and your ss play a part on the weight of the FW. Most people in this forum prefer heavier shaft but them most of them are low handicap players. Epon's FW stock is mid 50s for SR and 60's for S. The weight of the head plays a major part in obtaining overall balance. I prefer D0 sw hence weight of shaft and length all must interplay to achieve balance.