joey3108

I'll believe it when it happend. :) No way this iron look like the MP37. Especially the sole grind! Joe

Are you teasing me! :) Don't make me regret selling that iron to you dude! It's 1 of a kind, i hate to see them on B/S/T folder to soon. :lol: :D Joe here is the sole pic!

Don't worry! It shouldn't be a big deal with a proper shimming.Joe Kwok

Adjusting lie and loft angle comes under the umbrella of my work. Can't speak for others! :) Joe I can atest to this , with first hand knowledge :) I even bend your finger on the spot that day. :lol: J/K!!!!!!!!

Adjusting lie and loft angle comes under the umbrella of my work. Can't speak for others! :) Joe

No problem! Glad can help.Joe

IMO, Your swing tempo is not the problem. The problem is like you stated above is releasing it to early and enhance it w/ a mid kick shaft, Which most likely you choose a medium/softer tip shaft that enhance the release motion in your hand. That is why also you play better w/ a high kick shaft which most likely a stiffer tip . The hi kick shaft most likely made you delay the release hand action, somewhat kept the face open a fraction longer.Hitting down on the ball will create higher spin rate and baloon action on the ball too, Mid or low kick shaft will make it worst, unless if you can use a tip stiff mid or hi kick shaft. Those two shaft will reduce it. I bet ya if you look at your swing on a slow motion camera, Your club face were shut quite a bit. However the way I see it, IMO you need to fix your swing first before even hoing to much on the shafts. Hope that help! Joe :)

I'm not to clear or understand w/ your question here.Try to elaborate as complete/detail as possible for to be able to analize it and help you. Swing and club set up? medium tempo but a hitter :?: I'm confuse! :( Joe

Call me or email me I might have something you need.Joe 650 757 8310 PST [email protected]

SO Far so good, I've just able to have them played for 3 rounds only. I had them for a while but i was to busy to reshaft them. I can't tell you much but i notice that the long iron hits the ball a little higher. I bought this Rac CB from my last trip there last January. Well, about the rumors; Is it the truth or hype? This is what most people don't know. I bet you if they install them the same way exactly, I don't think even the best feel players can feel the different. Btw, Good to hear that you were playing well w/ the blueprinted set and good to hear that you are breaking your records. That what is suppose to be, right? I'll wait for your email. THX! Joe

Tourspecgolfer ( Chris ) should be able to help you out. Email him to [email protected]. Good luck! Joe

Should we boot Chris out from TSG till 2010 ? :P Nice one bro! :)

Robbie! LOL! When you have to do it everyday like that without a turning belt and you have to suck all the dust, Don't ask me to play golf. :) I'll just ask you take my wallet and empty it. Especially if we have a really over size 1" Japanese hard plastic ferrule. I'm sure my arthritis and lung decease will come sooner than we though :cry: .

I think Haribo is correct on this. I own pretty much most of Mizuno. The TP 11 is a straight line muscle and TP 19 is a wing style. This iron is different that the TN or MP heads. Thicker muscle and higher on the heel side. TP series is the european edition.

I still have a few on 13,16,19 and 20 on SS PRO Heads. Let me know if any of you need one. THX! JOe [email protected]

I have head only 14* $75 shipped to lower 48 states.Condition is 8.5, normal use wear and no sky mark it has a front edge grind and head was weighted at 214 grams. I will Give you $20 off if you pick a shaft from me. THX! Joe [email protected] Ps: Picture is in my "image gallery" folder .

Call me at 650 757 8310PST around 11 am west coast time. Joe

Not Bad! Second date you've got to kiss her already. :lol: Enjoy it! You've earn it. Cheers, Joe

Beauty is on the eyes of the beholder! I will always respect it, no matter what. :D Joe

Jimmy, Cosmetically "might" look old But the engine is stil in a prime condition and the driver are damn good at it! :) LOL BTW, 40's is young for ya? Geez! you are loosing your touch. :P J

LOL! Only 1 man show though! :)

I will try to make this clearer, Not to try any useless arguement here. My point here is only to educate people , so if they bought one they won't get screwed. I have 3 sets here in my hand and checked them w/ my Mitutoyo gauge. It might be exist out there some set that are slighly different than this one but I doubt it. It shouldn't be that much at all. Most OEM only do a special work to it if you are in the top rank players. Like a lot of them saying "only for Tiger or Ernie or ?, What's for me?" I've check also the grove depth , lenght, width and distance from one grove to another. This proved that they are coming from the same forging die. When they just came out of the last die, they ussually are a little heavier due to x tra metal to grind to perfection to the template shape. Plus It doesn't make sense if TM has to spend more money to make another sets of die only to make the cavity thicker. The cavity is basically the only part that they can't grind, "face" they have a certain guidance to make sure the depth of the grove is consistent. So they can't grind it to little, cause the grove will be to deep and become ILLEGAL. -Toe has been modified Yes, Correct And off course. -the topline is thicker Yes, To make up the metal they lost on the toe but If you look at it closely, IT's just not that much at all. -grind is different to prevent digging The 3 sets that I have here are completely the same exact angle and shape. I'm sure i'll get some more of this set in my hand to blue print. "Some say" that the amount of steel that is removed from the toe is more like 10 to 15 grams. I wonder who said this. Do you know how much metal you get out of 10 - 15 grams, That is probably half of the toe shape from the edge toe to the grove bead blast line. Last but not least, Even a master grinder of any major forging house will never be able to grind them to the "EXACT" shape one to another. Remember, they are still grinding this clubs using their eyes, hand and grinder. Yes they've added a few machine since then to reduce some of the labor involve ( definitely less labor w/ cast club ) , but they still can't make them completely w/ machines only 100%. However, Because of their technique, having a template, and trained skill...Most of us can't see the different. Hope this clear some air! Cheers! Joe

Yea! I'll grind your big toe first. So you won't walk that fast any more to go to GM. :) JOe

Yeah you could Joe , but what would you want with a 5 series Beemer?? I could think of a lot nicer cars that I would get :D You are right! :idea: I'll probably get a new young cute girlfriend. It'll last a year at least. 8O :wink:

I've hit them side by side here in my net, IMO no different in feel. Anyway, My point here is so people wouldn't get burn buying the "MADE" one. Plus, A lot of them call me and asked me what is the real different . So i hope w/ this pictures will clear up some issue. W/ a crook brain I can buy a slightly used retail for $300 and grind, refinish for another $300 + total of $600 ( I don't even have to lay my hands on them, maybe only the grind part ) and sell them for $1500 in a new condition. Sell 10 - 20 sets of this, I can buy a good condition 2002 Honda Civic all the way to 1998-1999 a 5 series Beemer. :lol: Joe