Duffer19

I have a chance to pick up a brand new RC CV Pro driver head for an AXIV shaft I have but somehow slightly concern about the 390cc head size as I have been playing 460cc drivers. I have the impression that RC driver or particularly CV Pro is not as forgiving as some others. I would be grateful for some playing experience or insight on RC drivers as I am very familiar with RC fairway woods. My ss is approximately 85 to 88 mph and play to a 15 hdcp.

I think that if you bend the JPX more upright, the ball would, in theory, go or hook left more. If the JPX is a one piece forged, I do not see any problem bending by 1.5 degree either way but one would take care with those undercut two piece welded heads. I had no problem bending my Miura cb201 by 2 degree more upright since it was already 2 degree flat compared to normal standard. Good luck.

I think your fitter or whoever is right. The Nspro1150 would be twice as heavy than the Armrq shaft and d2 is not exceptionally heavy sw. I think you would be ruining a complete good set of irons by changing to steel shaft. The 801 is not really designed for steel shaft.

Perhaps it is too new as I only have the run of the mill K'3001. Could it be similar to 6001?

Do I dare to disagree with Gocchin? Well, I would anyway as RC 5 wood designation is for 18 degrees and not 20. 20 degree is their 7 wood. I find no '+' designation in the RC site for BBD Type H II FW (could be for the orignial discontinued Type H). RC typically designate FW by degree since they make so many different lofts. My newly constructed CV Pro just have 14 degrees without any 'wood' designation.

Most if not all of my FW shafts were all driver shafts. It is a great way of recycle a good shaft. Most sites would advise the way to trim for FW. As long as you dont tip the shaft at all or too much, cutting the butt end should not affect playability too. Of course the cpm would go up regardless due to shorten length anyway. You should take a look at the WITB of this board and see how many driver shafts in FWs.

I am curious how it compares with Royal Collection CV Pro driver at 390cc. The one with spin control weights. Can I assume both with higher CG than 460cc models?

What is the main difference between the domestic Rapture vs Js besides a slightly stronger loft in one? The heads look the same (casted in China?) and same shaft options on the respective website. Same dot system right?

For whatever it is worth, the Big LB of yesteryears would be completely different than the Beres line. Dont be fooled by the Armrq stock shaft. The flex of stock driver shaft on the 711 would play considerable softer than the comparable flex on the 911. The 911 is designed for low handicapper players or pro while 711 is for mid to high handicappers. IMO the 811 and 911 would worthy of consideration while the 711 is crap. The Titleist 905R could compare but not the 905T. The heavier Armrq shaft in 911 could play stiffer than the comparable Fujifura which is famous for softer to flex like DG. As to the star system on shaft, we had a lengthy discussion on this board and I am sure you can find it.

What is the concern about hosel depth for the head? I have had two 460 heads reshafted with a Diamana white and one with Fit On Six without any tipping. You are concern with hosel depth that might affect playing flex? BTW both shafts work great with one lower launch and one higher.

That's the thing. I have no direct confirmation that SYB is Shimada golf and while I have the SYB site which has certain spec for shimada steel or K's series shaft, I cannot find a stand alone 'Shimada site' if there is one.

Besides the AC10 that came with my Epon X wedge (which has great feel), this is my real first experiment with Shimada shaft on a set of irons. I had wanted to try the K'5001 at 89 grams (to compare with my other sets with NSPRO 850) but had to settle for K'3001 due to availability. My initial impression at the range is the K'3001 R seems to be a tad softer than the 850 R but since it was only at a range, it is difficult to gauge distance. The feel is completely different from a DG or NSPro. The feel is closer to a Rifle feel but much easier to handle, for a senior. Judging from the table below (this could have been posted before), the K'3001 could be 1/2 flex softer than comparable NSpro 850 or 950. For those do not understand Japanese characters, I think North is Lighter with Heavier on the South and East for Stiffer of the shaft and west for softer flex.

Thanks Big Mack Of course I have no problem with 1025 carbon but I was told that it is even softer than 1025 for Pro 1 and II but Miz switched to 1025 in the later models such as comp and mp line. Perhaps 1020 C if there is such a thing. In any case, most pro owners are keeping their sets.

What is a Fuji speeder 55? 55 grams or speeder 553? Fuji like GD play a little softer to flex and with your driver speed, you would be looking at a X for Japanese spec Fuji. The theory is lighter the shaft, the faster the swing but if it is too light, you might lose control. Distance is not by speed alone as we are only suppose to swing at 80% anyway to keep the ball in play. Violent swing would definitely promote a slice at worst and a fade at best.

You are comparing apple and orange. Vega is vega and has its own purist following in Japan.

You should consider the Royal Collection CV Pro driver which is around 390 cc and lower launch for low handicap players. Since they are past/last year model, I know they are now available for heads only.

Really clean design but too bad I already own a set of KZ forged cavity IIM also by Koyei.

The CV blade does look like the X-Blade CB but does it mean X-Blade is forged by Kyoei too?

Can anyone really feel the small incremental increase or decrease in MOI? What is the name of this golf shop in HK since I am in town at the moment.

TM, please bring back the V-Steel FW. This is the really ugly, T, especially the shaft.

I am 16 going on 17...la la la la....

I was in the golf shop yesterday picking up my Shimada reshaft and my custom CV Pro 14 degree 3 wood and the owner was telling me to take a look and wait for the RC CV Blade if I am looking for a new set of players club. The new CV Blade looks very attractive but does remind one of other clubs design (Epon J or SYB or Vega?) We know Endo makes the other forged irons for RC (a la X) but is this one made by Endo too?

I went to a local fitter yesterday to have my old set (a set I leave in HK to play when in town) of Mizuno T-Zoid Pro irons reshaft with Shimada K'3001 from the heavier stock DG R300. He told me that he had reshafted at least 3 sets in the past few months and no one is getting rid of them anytime soon although it is almost a 10 years old model. I was further advised that unlike the newer Mizuno forged, the T-Zoid I and II were not made from 1025c. Would anyone have any idea the steel alloy used on the T-Zoid Pro if it is not 1025?

Hi T: If this one works, please don't start fooling around with the shaft as you might gain some marginal distance if at all but could change the feel of the club completely.

You would be hard pressed to find anything weaker nowadays. It is perhaps just 1 degree stronger than today's norm.