jacksonlui

i haven't tried them, perhaps I should give the sticky a try. The X-evolution has a nice pattern and is advertised for larger hands. however after some measurements, they are not that different than the red multicompound in terms of diameter, after measuring it down every inch of the grip. about a 0.01 inch difference with the iomic being larger.

hi, X-Evolution is 50g with a diamond cross pattern Sticky is 48g and looks like a tour velvet and costs a little more Who has tried both and what do you think? Which grip gets more play in the JPGA? They do last twice as long as my multicompound reds so they are worth the price, they are also much easier to clean. I guess I'll have to put up my bag full of multicompound reds for sale =) thanks Jack

i echo the sentiments on the X-UT. I have the #2 and #4. The NSPRO utlility shaft was pretty good but wanted something better and installed Ozik Altus XCons in both. It's a very solid club from the fairway and off the tee. it does take out the left side but won't stop those deadly pull hooks I'm trying to fight. I have these Nippon shaft pulls if anyone is interested.

thanks BAT. I've never thought of those points before.

can someone explain the performance of a shallow face versus a deep face driver? is it suppose to provide more forgiveness on toe and heel hits, but wouldn't it give you less forgiveness than a deep face driver if one mish1ts it high and low on the center? the EMB doesn't look that bad, but at 46 inches playing length? that's way long, will need a flatter lie angle, etc... i thought we were suppose to go towards a 44 inch driver for more consistency and no longer. thanks

wow, thanks for the info. i didn't know the carts allow a 45 degree angle in Japan, that's awesome. the ones here in the states are crappy, it basically stands up and a cheapo strap goes around it and sometimes comes loose and your bag falls on it's head and all your irons are banged up.

how come there are so many caddy bags as compared to the one cart bag in the pro shop? i think most of us ride and don't have people carrying our bags, wouldn't we want a cart bag with the putter and pockets in front, woods back, and some sort of strap loop?

has anyone tried this and compared it to the Epon wedge? Was wondering how these performed. thanks Jack

wow, love the satin finish on these and the finish on the face, similar to the face on the Miura's, not sure what that's called. looks alittle like the Type J's

wow, there's a lot of writing on that blade. i've had two range sessions with the baby blades (DGS300 softstepped) and I'm hitting it further with traditional lofts than my Type S. Not really sure why. I'm not hitting it as straight, too much of a draw....but that's what I was looking for. Something that doesn't mask my errors so i can work on a better swing. It feels really solid and the shaft has a nice trajectory. I can't say enough good things about it. There's a 4g plug to make it D3 throughout the set and D4 in the PW. I just love the way these setup. I don't think I'm ready to play with these yet on the course because I'm not good enough to control distance. My mis**ts lose too much distance and my solid shots go too far. I think I can dial it in after a few more range sessions. I was too spoiled with the cavity backs where mis**ts didn't lose much distance and stayed in line pretty well. Jack

They are limited numbers every year. It looks just like the tournament blade except the font is different and is 20% smaller. They are small and solid but you need a decent swing. I'm losing about 5yds on mis**ts and the DGS300 keeps it penetrating as compared to the 1150 in my TypeS. IMO, you can't make a better looking head at address. It's too much club for me but it makes it fun. I'll alternate between these and the Type S. The hosel is 2.756 inches or 70mm which is a little longer than others and the insertion depth is 1.181 inches which is pretty standard. I'll have to say that the quality of these heads and measurements were a bit better than the Epons. I don't think you can get a better cavity back than the Type S and a better blade than the baby blades.

just got some baby blades from Chip yesterday and had a 6 iron built up with DGS300. they are about the same size as a Nike blade, it's just a peice of art. Did anyone measure the CG on the Miura blades to confirm that the sweetspot is near the neck?

this forum isn't allowing me to post the link: just go to golfwrx, it's on the front page.

did you guys read the interview on GolfWRX? I found it informative and have a greater appreciation of their products. They provide a pretty good explanation on one of the reasons they go with spin welded hosels. http://golf wrx/BagChatter/2007/10/...ra-golf-part-1/

don't forget to throw that dish scrub away. just wanted to make sure =)

clean it with some WD40 and then apply baby oil or olive oil. i'm not sure if steel wool is sucj a good idea, it might scratch the finish. how about a scrubbing pad with dishes, the green ones that's fiber? a copper brush helps also. let us know how it turns out. i hope others have better suggestions.

some people like the feel and some don't. i wouldn't doubt the r&d from the Nasa dudes. I have it, didn't do much for me, but I don't dislike it, so it will stay.

i have a UST freq filter shaft and I agree with many others that it takes away feel. it makes it feel hollow. it didn't help me putt better but looks cool! it makes the putting sound tinny.

As for JDMs, I've own the MB5002 (TCS3), Epon J (1150S), and Type S (1150S). Miura's are better suited for the sweeper or anyone that hits the ball first and is more satisfying for the very good ball striker. The J's weren't that much more forgiving and felt very heavy and looked clunky for some reason. The NiCr on the Epon is a much better finish than the Miura's and lasts longer, love the way it looks. The Miura's felt much better, what people said, feels like the ball stays on the face a little bit longer, similar analogy to how an Epon Driver feels as compare to other offerings. Since having had some time with the Type S (1150S), I can say that these suit my game very well. So far they are the most forgiving with an occasional hot ball, at times the 6 iron went 180yards instead of my typical 165. This will piss me off if I was shooting for the green, but the several times that this happened, I was laying up. I attribute this to my swing. I can hit all the way down to the 3 iron without too much drama. I can't get over the click and tinny feeling but if you look at it another way, it feels and sounds like expensive metal. It's hard to argue the playability of the Type S for the midcapper, they are hands down a scoring machine, stops on a dime, great trajectory, average turf interaction, wonderful balance, and the best looking cb I own. Love the shape, compactness, topline, and NiCr finish. This sets up really nice. Because of this, my 695cb (TCS3) put together by Dana Upshaw sits in the garage. On occasions, I'm not getting the distance I need when hitting from the rough. I also want to add that I'm a picker/sweeper with my bad shots being thin and a pull/hook. I have a 95mph average driver SS playing once a month to an unofficial 15-20. Driver/Irons are my strengths if you can call it that, putting being my weakest, I basically pray through the course. Any given day I might have several religions *smiles*. I think picking the irons with the right sole is one of the most important. I'd choose the the Miura blades for the good ball striker, and the Type S for those that need a little more forgivenes, sacrificing purity. IMO, these clubs are tops on the opposite ends of the spectrum. Given this, I think Epon can take all that is good about the Miura baby blades and corner the market with a true player's club. I didn't notice much of a score differential playing between the two sets since I don't go below the 5 iron and I don't really buy it when people say the sweetspot on the blade is the size of a dime, it feels much bigger than that. Here's an excerpt from an article on blades - "A benefit of smaller heads for players who enter tournaments (play it as it lies) on good courses - where lies in the rough can be nasty - is that the smaller the blade, the easier it is to dig a recovery shot out of long grass. Shovels are much more susceptible to grabbing and twisting. Smaller blades are also much better chipping clubs."

any differences you can feel between the chikara and original epon x-wedges?

the original ones look better, the new ones look cheesy, kind of a mutation from several previous models.

was wondering if anyone had a guide on maintaining the brushed finish in terms of brushing and buffing with some compound and felt. i'm using a brass brush but that is too abrasive over time and the plastic ones are too weak. thanks Jack

if the chikaras weren't so expensive and more in line with the prices of Epon wedges, I'd get a set. For now, the Epons are in the bag. i too am looking forward to the different grinds but not willing to pay a premium for it. the market segment interested in 250 wedges is much less than what can be had at the 150 range

i think that picture is the 2007 tournament blade, looks just like the limited edition, except a little bigger. heard the baby blade is scheduled for 2008. not sure...wouldn't be my gamers but would be fun to have around. what do you think of these and the scratch blades.

i'm waiting for the baby blades to come out in 2008. they will be sweet, hopefully they will offer a satin finish option and 5-pw