Duffer19

I respectfully disagree of removing the initial listing price. It is a useful tool or reference for others as we all understand that there is likelihood that it might not be the final sold price with the except of Tae's gear which would be sold before 90% of members have the chance to even see them.

So the head is the same as the last maxima model and only difference is the shaft? Does GD makes this spec shaft as a aftermarket? Does the Fuji Air works the same?

what is the total weight of the putter ? Is the stock grip rubber or grip master leather? Thanks

I am selling one of my two MG8 but this one was refinished by Matsumoto Japan about a year ago with new bronze finish (from the original Teflon black). Did not want to grind out some nicks as I did not want to take off any weight as it is now a heavy 546g at 33.5". Grip and HC are new from factory. I am looking for $300 net PP to me but include shipping via EMS anywhere.

This would teach you guys (senior like us) to look at the forum when you have to get up to use the loo in the middle of the night so you don't miss anything.

I use Nespresso for the convenience of not clearing up after. I have 2 shots of expresso each morning at 10 to 12 strength. I drink coffee for the bitter sweet taste and strength so really not into form stuff like latte. A friend of mine would buy green raw coffee bean and roast a few pound at a time and use a professional machine just to make a few expresso. Nothing automatic like the machine being posted here or Nespresso.

For those old enough (not too many in this forum) might remember or know about Kenneth Smith, the premiere America custom golf company, a golf company for the stars and royalties. My dad had many sets of Kenneth Smith custom persimmon woods that costed an arm and a leg back in the 60's. I picked this Ti driver quite a few years ago just for the name and memory. I am just now clearing out my basement in Toronto as I would be moving soon. For those wanting a small driver head, this might be a good experiment. The head is 340cc and loft, is 10 or 10.5* and condition is near mint for an older club. I am asking $200 net to me for head only but include shipping anywhere. The shaft is R flex made by Fujikura and if you want the whole club, there might be a small up charge for additional shipping. The club is still in Canada so I would take off the shaft if it is sold within the next two weeks.

Since you are talking about DAT55, the URA drivers are all made with it. Any idea about them?

To be honest, there would only be some value to a die hard Epon fan boy and little to others. Golds would charge you plenty for the mods but it's really a big judgment call to see whether it is worth the investment.

What's wrong with their site? It seems to be gone. I have their newest JDL shaft and it's great.

I have the exactly the same two set of shafts. Both are equally good yet feel different. One just cannot go wrong with either.

Tried it with loose and fluffy sand and today firmer sand due to rain in the morning. The technique and result were basically the same. I found it works better with a descending blow with weight mainly on the front foot. 50/50 weight doesn't seem to work as well.

To be honest, I am actually afraid to use the 64 anywhere except bunkers. Just too high loft for me without a lot of practice as a chipping or pitching tool. Fortunately I use mainly my 54* around the green so the 64* (replace my 58*) does not take away a spot in the bag.

I now played the 64* for about 5 games now. Getting out of the sand is not a problem at all but gauging distance of each bunker shots would take more practice. Very good at shortish bunker but it is not a great tool for long bunker with a 64*. You would play it square and not open up the 64 or 70*.

I have played all three models Gloire except the F and IMO the Reserve is the best of the lot. At this price, it's great as a travel driver as a friend of mine would take the head off and put it in suitcase so it would not get damage during flight.

Cutting the existing shaft down by 1 1/2 inch would mean reducing the swing weight by 8-9 points assuming you are starting out at D1. My own preference is around D0 to D2. Off topic a little about jdm club measurement. My club fitter always say his measuring length result of a stock Jdm club is always 1/2 inches longer than the stated spec. My new driver purchase from Japan has the stated spec at 46" but measured by my club fitter at 46.5". Anybody else that ?

Did I read this right? You are playing a 50" Titleist driver? The 46.6" type G is based on stock shaft or stock spec. Type G is lighter than type D or V hence a longer stock shaft to balance it swing weight of D0 or D1. However you can change the head weight by using the weight port or using weight pin on shaft to play at short length. All you need is to find a good fitter to build you a club to fit your swing. The speeder in the picture is not stock so cannot say whether it would give you 15 yards. Distance is a function of many factors.

Yeah, it would indeed be interesting to compare the two shafts since one is 6 times the cost of the other.

So I have the 64* for two games now and the jury is still out. With my normal 58* sw, I normally would open up the wedge and with an open stance. With this, you are to stand square and no need to open up the wedge and hit like normal iron except a inch or two behind. So far my own consistency it's not there yet. I have yet dare to use the 64* anywhere besides bunker.

I have a Maxima 10.5 with crazy proto on BST now. PM me if you have any interest. http://forum.tourspecgolf.com/topic/38345-reduced-ryoma-maxima-type-d-105-with-crazy-s-513-prototype-sr-pic-added/

Make them copper and you would satisfy those wanting Epon copper 302s.

So with this, why would anyone wants to buy those high price JDM like Yoro and Miura and more obscure brands like Modart, A Grind and that sheep brand. : =(

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What loft do you have there B?

New reduced price