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idrive

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Everything posted by idrive

  1. Akira ix24 w/Graph Design UT 95 S Akira M218 .5* open w/Graph Design DI 7 S Akira M221 1* open w/Graph Design DI 8 S I'm not giving up the Egg spoon (15*) just yet.
  2. Mine are ordered. Your fault. I'm going the GD DI route with the shafts. The only thing that worries me about getting these is I have the Eggs so dialed I really don't have any reason, or desire to switch. Much like Bogey the flatter lies are a big part that calls out to me. If they knock the eggs out.... they will get their chance. It will be a few weeks before I have a review.......
  3. idrive replied to DaleUK's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Not every manufact. have the same factory lie angles!!!!!! 62.5-64* is common for a PW. 64* the most common. Give me a divot to look at for proper lie angle any day. Depth from top to bottom (heel-toe) but also the angle (direction) it enters and leaves. Down the target line?? left?? right?? Not everyone will have the same results with a too flat or too upright lie angle. Swing path must also be used in the calculation. Wedges: Generally a bit flatter lie is desirable with the wedges you don't always hit full. Opening a wedge up requires a bit flatter lie to work properly. In closing... :) It's all in the divot.
  4. IMO.... I think you'd have better results going softer than stiffer. S flex is probably the best match but a smooth swinger could make the R flex work very well. I have that exact shaft in my PRGR Zoom, stiff. works okay.... but I don't like it as it feels like rebar to me. Our SS is about the same.
  5. idrive replied to DaleUK's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Don't be fooled. The Copper wears like Iron....... :) Seriously, the finish is much more durable than you think. I have proof...
  6. JAT, IF, weaker lofts, 2-3* weaker. fits in to the right gaps... have you considered bending them? A 46*Loft w\8* of bounce will have 10* bounce if bent to 48*loft. Bending the clubs this way would open up almost all of the JDM sets. (with narrow soles) :) I've not done this with a complete iron set but do it with wedges all the time with great results.
  7. IMO. If you strike the ball well go with the 15* if looking for distance. If you want to throttle down, choke down, hit different shots, 17* You can see what I play....
  8. idrive replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    I have had my wedges "flatter" for the last couple o years now. Much easier to hit the variety of shots we hit with the wedges. I have always kept my lies on all clubs as flat as possible.
  9. This is the most neglected part of my bag. I don't like the lie angle (too up right) of most of the FW and Ut's. So when I find something a little flatter and it just happens to be a club that works fantastic for me and has been cemented in my bag.... the "eggs". I think I'm ready to go 20* and toss out the 18 and 22* This has been on my mind over the last couple of weeks. After much research most everything I'm looking at (Yama-RC-TS etc) is about 1.5-2* more upright. *than what I'm playing now I always ask.. but haven't for awhile :) anyone able to custom the lie angle 2* or so flatter? I still hit the eggs so well I feel like I'm wasting my time trying to replace them. But, I'd like to give a few a try. FWIW I have found the FW's and Ut's to be among the easier to hit, very user friendly clubs out there. *Edits *I would prefer an RC as my 1st choice. * I'm really surprised we don't have more PRGR fans.
  10. If I were building/marketing shafts... graphite in particular.... I would go after the middle aged - senior golfers. Graphite goes farther than steel and much easier on the body. The slower swing speeds don't know the difference in the dispersion.... I have a set of graphite shafted irons I use when I have to hit off of mats. There is a big difference in the shock factor to the joints. I would rather play steel. For me I still think they work better, especially for the price compared to the high end graphite. But, I can see the time approaching when the extra yards, the softened shock to the joints.... will be nice. Hope they get the technology and prices down!!! :)
  11. Where are the flat screens???????? I would love to have something like that.... my guess is w/smart... 1 mill.???
  12. Can't wait to hit this... Mine will have a Noir shaft....
  13. idrive replied to Blader-X's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    How did you get them to split up the Fourteens?? Thought they came as a set only?? Ever since bagging the SDJ wedges... nothing else even comes close. Nice set up B
  14. i don't think you could notice a difference in feel between the finishes. The copper wears very very well. I have noticed that the more humid the climate the darker the patina... leave the covers on in Florida and they are much darker than no covers in Arizona. This thread has me feeling guilty for having the copper 301's on the shelf. They don't see much playing time anymore which is kinda sad. Not their fault as they are as playable as any irons I have. If I could only have one set of Non Conforming irons, these (copper 301's) would be it. I think I'll go load em up for a few rounds. :) Conforming grooves, 302's, Although a set of Yururi's is working hard...
  15. Looks like my 3 wood....
  16. IMO, It's all about bling. You can't forge a better iron than an Epon, Yururi to name a few... but you can have a name and bling.... Kind of like cars...some are more expensive than others.... in the end they're just cars.... But the culture in a lot of the golf world outside of the U.S., it's all about bling. Doesn't matter if you can play well, it's about having the most expensive, most bad ass (best) clubs. Also, doesn't matter whose clubs you buy/use. If they are not the right set up they're not going to work well. Sometimes, in this case, the most expensive may not always be better. I could elaborate... someone else??
  17. idrive replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Going to put a crazy in my Ryoma. I have a TJ-46 shaft sitting here.... much stiffer flex than the SR FE that's in it now. I think I'm over powering it when I go after it. I think the TJ might work better for me... let me go after it a little...
  18. idrive replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Great find. I'd have gone for everything... when you decide to sell we'll be here for you...
  19. Had two orders placed and shipping from different manufactures. They both shipped on time. One, the day of the quake, the other the next day. Arrived on time as well.
  20. idrive replied to supo's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    I'm much more a sweeper of the ball... Not a digger at all. It's possible the grind isn't working with a steep swing. What are the playing conditions? Turf, soft-hard Everyone knows how much I love these irons.
  21. C Should have a toe hang... around 4-4:30 when shafted. When they put the long neck on them, they are face bal. (shafted) This could actually be a whole new Putter customization option......... yours might be the first answer style Putter to be weighted face balanced this way. (weights)
  22. Be safe!!! We'll be waiting for you to let us know how many tics they get on your arrival in Singapore. Be safe.
  23. Did I mention durable?? ;) I'd say at least 25 - 30 rounds. 10 range sessions. Yes that is the Pitching Wedge I do take other sets out here and there.... :) I keep my clubs clean, wipe after every shot, that includes the driving range. Keeps the wear way down. It also slows you down at the range, which for me is a good thing.
  24. 3 more.... and yes, time is flying.. hold on everybody. C, B Sure and let us know what you decide to do.
  25. They are solid. They are soft. They feel great. They are forgiving for a smaller players CB. They look great and as Jim said, from address they look perfect. Forgot to mention. I think the most over looked feature of these Irons is the grind. Excellent, versatile grind. Except perhaps for the really hard fairways it doesn't get any better.